» There’s no place like…
Andrew Kay finds comfort at Home in Queens Park
One of my favourite spots in Brighton has to be Queens Park. It’s one of those rather grand Victorian gestures that works, unlike so many of their other foolish ideas. I love the broad sweep of rather grand family houses that curve around its perimeter, I like the pond and the mad follies too. The one thing that it lacks though is a cafe. Oh I know there is one, situated in the children’s play area. But I don’t think I need to go into detail as to why that is not exactly a comfortable or even sensible place for men to hang around sipping tea, no matter how innocent their intention.
I have a dear friend who goes to the theatre every week, or has done until recently. These days he avoids shows that are billed as children’s or family entertainment. He simply feels uncomfortable in that situation. How awful is it, that as a society we have come to this; a perfectly respectable person denies himself a pleasure that for over half a century he has enjoyed simply because he feels that current trends may brand him an unacceptable audience member.
‘‘I had to ask if it was home-made and in reply they sent out the chef to assure me that it was’’
Back though to Queens Park and its lack of refreshments. Well not any more. On the sharp corner that leads out of Egremont Place there has always been a food establishment of some sort, sometimes good, sometimes not so. Now it has re-opened as Home, a café stroke deli. It’s a nice name that conjures the idea of simple, homely food, a promise that I hoped they could fulfil.
At the moment it’s only open in the daytime and in the evening for private parties, rather a good idea for those of you who baulk at the idea of burger chain parties for your babbling brats, sorry, adorable offspring. I wandered up there with my friend and colleague, Mrs E, for a spot of lunch on a chill but sunny Wednesday. Despite Home being rather new it was already quite full. Now that alone is a good sign.
We quickly found a table and a menu and before long we were struggling to decide what to eat. There were plenty of choices, but not too many, and a blackboard offered a selection of specials.
I was sorely tempted by roasted Jerusalem artichokes with parmesan, but also very aware of the short term side-effects they have on the digestive tract. I will spare you the details but they should certainly come with a warning.
In the end Mrs E chose a goats’ cheese tart with salads and I could not resist meatballs and chips.
The tart was excellent, a huge slice with delicious melted cheese and caramelised tomato slices. The salads were generous and interesting. Mrs E chose roasted vegetables and potato salad. I was impressed to see that the potato salad came with or without bacon. So many places would simply have made the vegetarian-friendly version. I was not surprised that she could not finish the meal as it was bountiful in every sense. It was also clearly home-made.
As were my meatballs. They came, three of them, two would have looked vulgar, in a large soup plate surrounded by a good light tomato sauce, just the right amount of sauce too, neither too much nor too little. The chips were served in a bowl on the side, I suppose to prevent them becoming soggy. They were also good, nice and crisp and lightly seasoned. I ate them one at a time, dipping them into the sauce as I went. Much as I did with each forkful of meatball. These were nice and meaty and again well seasoned and I struggled to finish them, but in the end I did. It’s funny how you can feel quite full and decide to eat no more, then suddenly, if something tastes good, you find that extra space for those last few morsels.
Which is how I also ended up with a slice of delicious apple and walnut cake. I had hankered after the chocolate and almond one, but as I dipped my chips it was removed at a stroke from the menu – sold out. The apple and walnut variety was more then a good second best, it was extraordinarily good, the sponge as light as a feather, the apples sweet, the walnuts crunchy and delicately bitter and the use of cinnamon well measured. I have to be honest, I am not a cinnamon fan, but here they had used it well. I had to ask if it was home-made and in reply they sent out the chef to assure me that it was.
There is a range of deli products for sale, small at present but with the promise of expansion and the pricing is modest too. Our lunch certainly would not break the bank.
Home, 32 Egremont Place, Brighton
01273 674456
It’s officially the festive season and in my quest to find the perfect party dress I discovered that this is the season to be merry because anything goes!
