Nicholas Rohl of sushi restaurant Moshi Moshi on sustainable fishing

What inspired an English man to create a Japanese restaurant?
When I was eighteen I went to Tokyo. It was the late eighties, and it was still pretty unusual to see any Westerners in Japan, but by one of those strange coincidences, I was there at the same time as a girl from my school in Lewes, Caroline Bennett. We decided to meet up and we chose a conveyor belt sushi bar to eat in. It wasn’t the first time I had eaten sushi, but I still wasn’t very familiar with it. At any rate, I have this distinct memory of the sushi we ate tasting awful. It nearly put me off eating sushi altogether. Seven years later, we opened the first conveyor belt sushi bar in Europe in Liverpool Street Station, London. Probably because of that experience in Tokyo, we decided that Moshi Moshi should serve really good quality sushi, in spite of it being a conveyor belt sushi bar.
Opening the first conveyor belt sushi bar in Europe must have been quite an experience!
I remember it being really tough. At the time, virtually all Japanese restaurants were owned by the Japanese, and there was a lot of resistance to what we wanted to do. Our Japanese chefs had us over a barrel, taking backhanders from their favoured Japanese suppliers. Everything was artificially expensive, so to try and sell sushi at affordable prices was really hard. The other problem was that our Japanese chefs always seemed to have a drink problem. On one occasion, I was called up at home by a customer to tell me that our Head Chef was lying on the floor in front of the customers, dead drunk, and waving a sushi knife in the air whilst singing the Japanese national anthem. Most of the time, we had to use guerrilla tactics to keep the restaurant open. The main problem was getting working permits because the people at the Home Office didn’t know what sushi was.

How quickly did the business become a success?
Overnight. I remember there being queues from pretty much the first day. We were so busy that we had our chefs sleeping on the kitchen floor because there was no time to go to bed. The reason why we were so successful was that we were the first people in Britain to say, hey, sushi doesn’t need to be so expensive and inaccessible. We believed that everyone should be able to afford and enjoy it – and we were right.
Did you ever have problems finding the right quality fish?
Not in the early years. The mainstay of sushi is good quality bluefin tuna, and it was readily available in those days. I remember coming into the restaurant and seeing the belt full of toro – the highly prized fatty belly of the tuna. That would be unthinkable today: blue fin is now on the verge of extinction. When Caroline found out about the plight of bluefin, she promptly took it off Moshi Moshi’s menu. That was eight years ago. It represented the beginning of her fight to protect fish species by changing the way restaurants order and supply fish.
So having become aware of declining fish stocks, what did you do?
We phoned the World Wildlife Fund for Nature (WWF) and got involved with a few other individuals who were concerned about the, frankly, alarming situation. The problem from the outset was that the issues were extremely technical and difficult to explain to people. It was so much easier to get people to care about pandas and whales than about cod, although things are at last changing on this front. We ended up sitting on a steering committee set up by the WWF called Invest in Fish to try and find a formula for a sustainable fishing industry. Our conclusion was to create a direct link between restaurants and family run fishing boats.
So is all your fish sourced in this way?
No, but as much as is possible. We talk to our Cornish fisherman, Chris Bean, every day, and basically guarantee a market for his sustainably caught fish. That way he fishes for a specific market – Moshi Moshi – meaning he has to catch less fish than he did before. We’ve also cut out the middleman, so Chris gets more money for the fish he catches. It’s kind of a Fair Trade
arrangement – making it worth his while to catch fish sustainably. This year he’s doubled his turnover by catching the same amount of fish, which is exactly the result we were hoping for! We’re helping each other to catch fish with the least damage done to the marine environment – with the added benefit that fish caught in this way is by far the best quality available.

Have people started to notice what you are doing?
Yes. Two years ago we won the little known, but very prestigious, Green Apple Award for the Environment, which is a UK Government sponsored award given to businesses and individuals who have made a difference to the environment. This year, Moshi Moshi won the RSPCA Business Innovation Award for Animal Welfare.
Are your ethical instincts apparent across the business?
Yes, even our new floor is made of recycled plastic! We’re now looking to make our plates out of recycled materials. And some of our suppliers run their vehicles from the oil we use to make tempura.
And what about the food you serve, other than fish?
It’s now become so common to see the words ‘locally sourced’ on menus that I think the term is in danger of being devalued because many restaurateurs abuse the term. We have genuinely embraced the issue across the whole business so that we don’t just source locally but are actually working with local producers to grow our food. For instance, Moshi Moshi is working with a local smallholder in Lewes to grow our Japanese vegetables for us. We are also about to launch an association called Responsible Fish Restaurants (RFR), to encourage other restaurants to source fish in the same way as we do.
Does it cost you a lot more as a business to operate in this way?
Yes, of course it does – not only because the produce costs more, but also because of the time and effort we dedicate to operating more sustainably – but the payoff is that we know we are doing something good.
Where do you go from here?
We are constantly learning, and we’re continually on the lookout for better ways of doing things. We want to use more parts of every fish we catch so as to reduce the numbers of fish Chris needs to catch for us. We don’t particularly have an ambition to grow as a company, we just want to do what we do in a better way.
Moshi Moshi, Opticon, Bartholomew Square, Brighton
01273 719195
www.moshimoshi.co.uk
Opening Times: Tue–Sun, 12pm–10.30pm | Map