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Andrew Kay gets the taste and sounds of Spain at Agua Dulce

Agua Dulce occupies the home of my long lost favourite Brighton eatery, The Latin In The Lane. I have so many happy memories of evenings and lunchtimes spent there and was devastated when they decided to close and move on. It took me a long time to go back and it wasn’t until Agua Dulce opened that I again felt comfortable there. Carlos opened his little patch of Spain on the south coast a while back now and my first review was of a very memorable meal in a room that needed some love.

Well, I’m delighted to say that I have been back and Carlos and his wife have worked wonders with the space, bringing back the warmth that one felt at the original ‘Latin’. There is now a sensible bar area, the walls have relief images in the plaster, and there is a fine collection of traditional Spanish wooden boats to give the place some atmosphere.

“I had a glass of manzanilla and some olives, and we tucked into a couple of tasty tapas until the main event”

We visited on a Thursday evening, which, by accident, happened to be Flamenco night. I like Flamenco, the agressively passionate music and dance of Spain, and the brother and sister act performing were extremely good; it was feisty stuff that made the hairs on my arms stand up.

But it was the food that we had gone for so on with dinner. I was joined for the evening by top date Ms McT. Knowing Carlos as I do, I threw him the challenge of choosing dinner. I had little doubt that he would rise to it and show off the best the kitchen can do. Ms McT does not drink in the week so I had a glass of manzanilla and some olives, and we tucked into a couple of tasty tapas until the main event.

First out were stuffed baby squid on fried greens. The tender pods of squid were perfect, the rice stuffing soft and savoury, and the greens added a rich, dark balance. Had I not known better I certainly could have scoffed the lot, but there was more to come. Much more. Croquettas are always a delight; I love them in Holland but these Spanish ones were filled with a creamy potato and salmon mixture and fried in fresh breadcrumbs. Totally scrummy stuff although I suspect slightly heart stopping. A goats cheese and vegetable salad was also good and rather dramatically presented, looking like an Ascot hat.

Next came a dish of rice cooked with squid and squid ink, topped off with prawns, and a dish alioli. I love the various rice dishes of Spain, and there are so many, many more than the ubiquitous paella. Paella itself is the most misunderstood of dishes and on a global scale probably the one that is cooked badly most often. This rice and squid dish was epic, scarily black but packed with flavour and tender squid. The pale pink prawns on top added a further level of sweetness and the heady garlic mayonnaise added fire and balance. By now I was working my way down a half bottle of good rioja – a perfect match for the dish.
And that is where any sensible person would have stopped, but neither Carlos or I are sensible and so he brought out a platter of suckling pig with soft, sweet flesh and crisp salty skin. It was indeed a meal in itself and for a lesser diner it could have been a dish too far. I took it in my stride and decided to have the pork and forego a pud.

That seemed like a good idea but Carlos was having none of it and insisted that we stay for a small pud and a glass of PX. Well, the PX swung it for me and I sat back down. In no time at all a plate of churros and chocolate sauce was sat between us, not the lightest of dishes from the Iberian repertoire but delicious nonetheless and, although I did my best, I admit to having been defeated.
The menu at Agua Dulce is rich and varied and there are dishes to suit all pockets and appetites. Always ask what specials they have and do not be afraid to experiment. There will always be a welcome for you whether you want a feast or simply a sherry and a bowl of olives.

Agua Dulce, 10–11 King’s Road, Brighton, BN1 1NE, 01273 328672 www.aguadulce-restaurant.com

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Rating:
Steve Clements