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Andrew Kay gets tucked in to a fine Sunday Roast at the De Vere Grand in Brighton

When it comes to Sunday lunch I’m rather traditional. I like the right sauces with the right meats, gravy in a gravy boat and Yorkshire puddings only with beef (except when there are a few left over and then it’s okay to have them with jam). I get asked all the time what my favourite restaurants are but almost as frequently I get asked where the best Sunday lunch can be found. I invariably answer at my place but that sometimes prompts an unintended invitation. Read the rest of this article »

Andrew Kay gets the taste and sounds of Spain at Agua Dulce

Agua Dulce occupies the home of my long lost favourite Brighton eatery, The Latin In The Lane. I have so many happy memories of evenings and lunchtimes spent there and was devastated when they decided to close and move on. It took me a long time to go back and it wasn’t until Agua Dulce opened that I again felt comfortable there. Carlos opened his little patch of Spain on the south coast a while back now and my first review was of a very memorable meal in a room that needed some love.

Well, I’m delighted to say that I have been back and Carlos and his wife have worked wonders with the space, bringing back the warmth that one felt at the original ‘Latin’. There is now a sensible bar area, the walls have relief images in the plaster, and there is a fine collection of traditional Spanish wooden boats to give the place some atmosphere.

“I had a glass of manzanilla and some olives, and we tucked into a couple of tasty tapas until the main event”

We visited on a Thursday evening, which, by accident, happened to be Flamenco night. I like Flamenco, the agressively passionate music and dance of Spain, and the brother and sister act performing were extremely good; it was feisty stuff that made the hairs on my arms stand up.

But it was the food that we had gone for so on with dinner. I was joined for the evening by top date Ms McT. Knowing Carlos as I do, I threw him the challenge of choosing dinner. I had little doubt that he would rise to it and show off the best the kitchen can do. Ms McT does not drink in the week so I had a glass of manzanilla and some olives, and we tucked into a couple of tasty tapas until the main event.

First out were stuffed baby squid on fried greens. The tender pods of squid were perfect, the rice stuffing soft and savoury, and the greens added a rich, dark balance. Had I not known better I certainly could have scoffed the lot, but there was more to come. Much more. Croquettas are always a delight; I love them in Holland but these Spanish ones were filled with a creamy potato and salmon mixture and fried in fresh breadcrumbs. Totally scrummy stuff although I suspect slightly heart stopping. A goats cheese and vegetable salad was also good and rather dramatically presented, looking like an Ascot hat.

Next came a dish of rice cooked with squid and squid ink, topped off with prawns, and a dish alioli. I love the various rice dishes of Spain, and there are so many, many more than the ubiquitous paella. Paella itself is the most misunderstood of dishes and on a global scale probably the one that is cooked badly most often. This rice and squid dish was epic, scarily black but packed with flavour and tender squid. The pale pink prawns on top added a further level of sweetness and the heady garlic mayonnaise added fire and balance. By now I was working my way down a half bottle of good rioja – a perfect match for the dish.
And that is where any sensible person would have stopped, but neither Carlos or I are sensible and so he brought out a platter of suckling pig with soft, sweet flesh and crisp salty skin. It was indeed a meal in itself and for a lesser diner it could have been a dish too far. I took it in my stride and decided to have the pork and forego a pud.

That seemed like a good idea but Carlos was having none of it and insisted that we stay for a small pud and a glass of PX. Well, the PX swung it for me and I sat back down. In no time at all a plate of churros and chocolate sauce was sat between us, not the lightest of dishes from the Iberian repertoire but delicious nonetheless and, although I did my best, I admit to having been defeated.
The menu at Agua Dulce is rich and varied and there are dishes to suit all pockets and appetites. Always ask what specials they have and do not be afraid to experiment. There will always be a welcome for you whether you want a feast or simply a sherry and a bowl of olives.

Agua Dulce, 10–11 King’s Road, Brighton, BN1 1NE, 01273 328672 www.aguadulce-restaurant.com

Andrew Kay reveals the finalists in The Sussex Food & Drink Awards 2011/12

Finalists for the Sussex Food & Drink Awards 2011/12 have now been announced following the deliberations by judges at the American Express Community Stadium. Twenty-four of the county’s best food and drink heroes have made it through to make a tasty final line-up and will find out if they won at the Sussex foodie event of the year, the Sussex Food & Drink Awards banquet, on 26 January 2012 at the American Express Community Stadium, for which tickets are now on sale. Read the rest of this article »

Andrew Kay gets a good talking to at The Swan in Kemp Town

As a new resident of Sussex Square Mr R and I are gradually getting our bearings and finding where and where not to go. Lidl is up there and unlike some I shop there without wearing a Hermés headscarf and Jackie O’s. I also like Mama’s Café in Whitehawk where the breakfasts are excellent.

But top of our list right now are Hudson and Bridges at 237 Eastern Road which we gravitated to whilst moving for coffees and light lunches and The Swan which is owned and run by the same team. You might remember that I reviewed the Swan a while back and gave it top marks for simple food served well in stylish surroundings for an affordable price. And since then we have returned and had equally good food, still sensibly affordable and great wine at decent prices too. They seem to have grasped the fact that in times of recession we are all tightening our belts, well at least those of us who can tighten our belts, I have run out of belt to tighten of late.

Last week we went along to a special event at The Swan, the sixth in a series of supper talks aptly titled Up Your Street, hosted by Chris and Gary and delivered by the lovely Rose Collis, she of The New Encyclopaedia Of Brighton, an excellent tome on the history of our great city full of facts and fun too. Read the rest of this article »