» The devil’s cellar
Andrew Kay enjoys Poppy’s fabulous food and Casillero del Diablo wines in Kemp Town

I cannot remember when it was, or if it was the first, but I was certainly among the first people to open a pop-up restaurant in Brighton. Not that we called it that. Bill Smith, the boss, had staged Brighton’s smallest concerts in his sitting room one festival and after, challenged me to do something similar. The following year I hosted nine dinners in my Preston Street flat for eight people each time. It was exhausting but fun and I met lots of lovely people, some of them readers of this column.
Now pop-up restaurants are the norm, supper clubs de rigeur, being a foodie is almost an essential qualification in Brighton. If there were border controls in Preston Park, it would be one of the requirements for entry. Read the rest of this article »









