» Big cover up
Katie walks – well, dresses – like an Egyptian, and doesn’t like it one bit
It took two clicks, three jabs and 400 quid to organise a holiday to Egypt with my new best friend Jess.
It would be sunny and cultured. The antiquities were stunning and the fags were cheap. The hotel had an infinity pool and I had plans to ride a camel past the pyramids. It was a dream holiday. In a Muslim country.
“Do you know what that means?”, asked my globe-trotting mum, who knows the custom everywhere from Ankara to the Andes. “It means you will have to dress modestly.”

Scene two: Jess and I standing surrounded by mountains of clothes, looking despairingly into two empty suitcases. Having dissected the contents of both our wardrobes we have made an unnerving discovery: we do not own a single item of modest clothing between us.
Everything, um, yes, EVERYTHING, is too short, too low, too see-through, too tight, or just too much. Slapper-chic may have successfully seen us through the party scene of Brighton, but in a country where uncovered ankles are considered risqué, we were going to have problems.
Our only solution was layering – leggings under minis, shirts over crop-tops, shorts under skirts, and giant Pashminas swamping the whole lot. But if the problem of our holiday wardrobe was quickly resolved, my irritation was less easily appeased.
I’ve always thought respectfully about Muslim women’s right to dress as their religion prefers, and I’ve championed the embracing of other cultures and their traditions. But now I found my own appearance under attack, suddenly things weren’t so cut and dry.
As I marched through the heat of an Egyptian autumn, my blood started to boil beneath my swathes of newly-modest clothes. And as I dreamed of getting my shoulders out into the sunshine and swinging my legs in the cool air, I started to wonder if any woman would really choose to dress like this at all.
“I wanted my look back, I wanted my life back, and what I wanted most of all was the scope to be treated like a grown-up”
If I was struggling with the heat in flowing skirts and cotton scarves, then the locals looked like they were having even less fun – weighed down by full-length, darkly coloured garments, with black scarves covering their heads.
In the day I fussed over the heat under my outfit and then at night Jess and I bitched that we couldn’t glam up: pretty dresses had to be hidden, so shoulders were covered. Heels had to be ditched – lest we attract even more attention from the local men. And noticeable make-up was out of the question – at least judging by the looks we got the one night we dared to doll up our sad-rags with a splash of red lippy.
By the end of the week, I was feeling depressed, distressed and degraded (ironically, more so than I had ever felt in a mini-skirt on West Street). I wanted my look back, I wanted my life back, and what I wanted most of all was the scope to be treated like a grown up and allowed to dress however the hell I wanted.
Of course, at the end of the day, I could. It was my choice to dress modestly in Egypt, as a means of showing respect and avoiding hassle. At any moment I could have – theoretically – thrown my Pashmina to the wind and donned a boob-tube on the high street (although actually the attention would have made it a nightmare). After a week, I was back at home and proudly showing off my tan (subtly gained from the depths of the pool). But I thought how irksome it must be for the women who never knew that escape.
After a week of being swaddled, I was losing my mind. After a lifetime of such oppression, I would have lost the will to live.
Ultimately, what my week made me realise is that women’s right to dress as they wish – no matter how modest or immodest – has more significance than their desire to follow fashion. Freedom of dress isn’t just a matter of freedom of expression, it is the freedom to breathe, to desire, to choose and to think. More importantly still, it is the freedom to be. And that’s a right that we all deserve.







