» Chaula’s Indian restaurant
Andrew Kay heads over to Lewes for a Gujarati feast at Chaula’s including elephant’s ears
Growing up in Lancashire in the 1960s meant that I came late to Indian Food. I did have a school friend whose mum would do the occasional vesta, but I know that does not count, not even as food really.
When I arrived in London, aged 18, I was in for a massive shock. Indian food was cheap, delicious and did not come served in a puddle in the centre of a ring of white rice and dotted with sultanas. I soon found my way to both Euston, Tooting and Wembley and tutored myself in Indian delicacies. You might note that I say Indian because at that time we would still refer to this food as Indian, even though by travelling in the capital, I was engaging in regional Indian delights. It’s still hard to find regionally accredited Indian dishes but at Chaula’s in Lewes that is most certainly what you will find.
‘‘My favourites are the petis and kachori, you won’t find them in many places heaven knows why’’
My first Chaula experience was years back when she had first opened a small food shop selling prepared dishes and snacks, some frozen, all to carry out, but quite distinctly not a take away. I popped in, intrigued and purched a bag of hot goodies and marched off to Lewes station, a short walk away. By the time I got there I had eaten the lot. So I turned tail, walked back and bought loads more, really loads.
Now Chaula has a bona fide restaurant in a fine house in central Lewes. She still sells food to be eaten at home, but in two dining rooms she has created a menu crammed with real delights. ‘‘The food of India, not just Indian food,’’ she cries, and she is right.
Mum and Dad joined Mr L and I for a feast. To start we chose a mixed non-meat platter for two and a meaty version of the same. We added a few plain and masala papads for fun and ordered a few beers and a glass of wine for Mr L who has a gender crisis when confronted by lager.
The platter arrived and there was more than enough food for us all and all of it was quite delicious. The meats and samosas all excellent but my favourites from day one have been the petis and kachori, you won’t find them in many places and heaven only knows why.
For main courses I ordered a selection of dishes, meat and vegetable. At the centre a lamb lucknovi, which is an amazing dish with a real zing created by the combining of spices and fresh mint. Shaami prawns had a ginger infused tomato sauce and our chicken dish managed the so often impossible of having tasty chicken flavoured chicken basking in a spicy sauce that married rather than masked it. Spinach with paneer lived up to my expectations. Any restaurant trying to pass off cheap cheddar as paneer should be tied to barges, set alight and left to drift down the Ouse to the sea at Newhaven. Chaula’s was perfect.
Of course Chaula knowing that I was in the house could not resist bringing out some tasters of other dishes for us and a peshwari naan of immaculate pedigree.
I particularly loved a stuffed baby aubergine, filled with peanuts, sesame and sugar cane, a real wow. I also made light of sticky, crunchy okra, another favourite of mine.
Top of my list though were some elephant ears. Now before you get on the phone to Whipsnade and the RSPCA, they are a vegetable, one that Chaula informed us takes a great deal of careful preparation and cooking. Well Chaula, it’s certainly worth the effort, I found them completely captivating and could not stop returning to the plate. Fatal really as I spoilt my appetite for dessert, and I love Indian desserts. I say nearly because in the end I submitted to a mango kulfi, Dad had Jalebi and Mr L a mysterious, but quite delicious sweet ball of a pud. Mum, being sensible, knew quite when to stop.
Top of my list though were some elephant ears. Now before you get on the phone to Whipsnade and the RSPCA, they are a vegetable, one that Chaula informed us takes a great deal of careful preparation and cooking. Well Chaula, it’s certainly worth the effort, I found them completely captivating and could not stop returning to the plate. Fatal really as I spoilt my appetite for dessert, and I love Indian desserts. I say nearly because in the end I submitted to a mango kulfi, Dad had Jalebi and Mr L a mysterious, but quite delicious sweet ball of a pud. Mum, being sensible, knew quite when to stop.
Chaula’s, Eastgate House, 6 Eastgate Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 2LP
01273 476707
www.chaulas.co.uk
