» Food & Drink: MyHotel
Andrew Kay is making a habit of dining at Table in Brighton’s MyHotel
Best manners
This review has been unduly long in coming. I have eaten at Table on numerous occasions since the change from Zilli, and I have to say that, much as I liked a lot of what Zilli had done in terms of cooking, Table is so far proving to be a much better experience.
Of course, much of that is down to keeping what is good and changing what is not. Too often the baby gets thrown out with the bath water but not here, and it is heartening to know that on arrival the inimitable Gigi and his team are in place to look after you. Gigi is a maitre d’ of the old school who embraces modern styles and needs. In his hands you get looked after properly every time.
So excellent service is at the fore, and some excellent food to follow. On a pretty grim evening, Mr R decided to embark on his culinary journey with a plate of Cumbrian ham and remoulade. The ham was superb, better by far than most offerings from Parma, sweeter and creamier rather than greasy. The remoulade had Mr R waxing lyrical on the joy of celeriac – yes I know, and strange as he is not a fan of celery.
I was in comfort mode and chose a butternut squash risotto. My word it was good, pretty damned perfect, the right texture, light and fluid, smooth and totally satisfying, and in the right quantity for a first course too. I loved it.
Mr R moved on to one of the day’s specials: venison served with a blackberry compote and gratin dauphinoise. I rather fancied it myself but had eaten venison the day before so happily gave way. He loved it, so much so that he hardly spoke until the last morsel had been mopped up and devoured.
“The buzz, along with great food and service, make Table the place to be seen eating”
I decided to try the scallops with a crab beurre blanc. Mmmm. No really, it was exactly that: rich, buttery and full of flavour. I felt rather naughty ordering a side of chips but I know how good they are and that they would be perfect for mopping up the delicious sauce. The scallops themselves were cooked just right, hot throughout but barely cooked, so still full of juices that simply sang of the sea.
To drink, Gigi had suggested a bottle of Sancerre Rouge, a favourite of mine when you can get it and a good red even with delicate seafoods. It also followed my customary Negroni, without suffering from the rich bitterness of the cocktail.
In reality, a dessert might have been a course too far – for me that is. Mr R made very light work of the chocolate brownie sundae, which he actually decided was pleasantly light. It looked pretty hefty to me – delicious, but not exactly my idea of light.
I chose roasted plums with pecan shortbread and clotted cream. I love plums and these had that nice balance of sweetness and cheek-shrivelling sourness. The pecan shortbread was a triumph; they looked pretty hearty but were as light as a feather, simply dissolving after that first sharp crunch. If I had any complaint it would be that the clotted cream was a tad tired. It can, when left too long, lose some of its silky texture and dry out. In doing so, it also loses some of its sweet flavour too. A small point but I don’t want them to get too big headed.
So, great food and great service in what I have to say are great surroundings. Not that I disliked the space before but I do feel that the new layout shows the restaurant to a better advantage. And the changes have worked; the room was rammed with what I can only describe as happy diners.
I have eaten there so often of late that I have perhaps spent less time in the bar, which is not a bad thing. It also means that I can highly recommend the soy marinated steak, which is a big robust dinner, and I loved a poached pear with an edgy Stilton ice cream too.
Sunday lunch was truly delicious, a simply roast chicken came with a large dish of first-class vegetables and excellent gravy. Almost as good as home made, depending of course whose home it happens to be made in.
MyHotel now has a restaurant of note and one that is often busy. The buzz, along with great food and service, make Table the place to be seen eating.
Table, MyHotel, Jubilee Square, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 1GE, 01273 900383 www.myhotels.com/brighton
