» Food & Drink: Jeremy’s at Borde Hill reviewed
Andrew Kay is blown away by Jeremy’s at Borde Hill
Approach almost any Sussex foodie and mention the name Jeremy and you will see their eyes soften and their lips moisten. For those in the know, Jeremy is The Man, and if you aren’t in the know that is more than likely because Jeremy, who is more than usually at the range, is also rather modest.
The restaurant is in an amazingly pretty location at Borde Hill, where the fabulous gardens attract many visitors of their own accord. We were there on a Thursday lunchtime but despite this, and the credit crunch, we were thrilled to see that business was pretty damned good. But then with food this damned good that is hardly surprising.
We parked and headed into the bar where Mr R had a soft drink whilst I could not resist a half of Harveys. The lunch menu is fantastic value but we were set for the a la carte. It was a real delight, full of dishes that I would have loved to try, and it proved very hard to decide.
I had to slow myself down to make the most of the monumental pudding
Our drinks finished, we headed to our table by a window overlooking the sloping lawns and fountain. Sadly the weather was not good enough for us to sit on the terrace. With our drinks we had been served a very nice fruit gazpacho but now we were ready for the main event. Mr R chose a robust starter of pan fried chicken livers and chorizo with a bean stew. It was hearty stuff, rustic fare that put an enviable grin on his face.
I could not resist the squid and I was glad of this because it was amazing – the crisp outside giving way to tender insides, beneath a puree of smoked aubergine and, on the side, a glass of crab bisque. Yee ha – tongue-tickling stuff that looked brilliant and tested better.
My beer gone, we each had a glass of chilled rosé, a sensible and delicious choice that worked well with my platter of veal. Locally sourced, and sauced, it was a plate of delights. The meats clearly came in high but I was also impressed with the delicious and genuinely seasonal vegetable accompaniments that came with it. A tiny roast squash had me pontificating on the value of tiny squash to a rather amazed Mr R, as did the courgettes and salardaise potatoes.
He had ordered the nettle gnocci with candied beetroots, an unusual choice I thought. He loved it, and in particular the soft dumplings at the heart of the plate. I thought it looked lovely but was not even offered a taste. I suspect that this was because it was a dainty dish, not side splitting as his starter had been.
The next passage should come with a health warning. Yes, it’s pudding time. The first time I visited Jeremy’s I raved about dessert and I am about to do it again. Last time it was a jelly of such sublime deliciousness that I was almost speechless – almost. This time I chose a cherry and almond tart with cherry salad. God it was good. The pastry was exquisitely short, delicate and sweet, hitting the tongue in a burst of crispness that simply melted away. The layer of cherries was perfectly bitter, sweet and sharp. But the almond frangipane on top – what genius, what skill and delicacy of touch. I had to slow myself down to make the most of this monumental pudding.
Across from me, Mr R was in an even more heightened state. Having seen sticky toffee pudding, he had to have it. Now my experience of this pud is mixed. Too sweet, too claggy, too dry – more often than not there is not enough sticky toffee either. His arrived in a huge soup plate, cake to centre, sauce around. If you had removed the cake it would have looked like a bowl of soup. The sauce was shiny and dark, sinister almost, and Mr R was not sure whether to eat it with a spoon or simply lower his face into the glossy glory below.
I did get a taste this time and it was perfection – not for the faint hearted but worth a long drive. The pudding itself was light as a feather, the sauce complex, bitter sweet and luscious. It did leave him in a rather heightened mood, should I say, but there’s nothing wrong with that. Jeremy and his team are legendary, as is their food, and I found no fault with the entire experience.
Jeremy’s Restaurant – Borde Hill, Borde Hill Gardens, Balcombe Road, Haywards Heath, West Sussex RH16 1XP. Tel 01444 441102 www.jeremysrestaurant.co.uk
