Thursday 24th May

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» Manor from heaven

Andrew Kay cannot believe why it has taken him so long to find Hangleton Manor

Actually that is far less than the truth. It strikes me that my mates have been keeping Hangleton Manor a secret on purpose. In fact I know that is true because one of them said “Please don’t write about it, or we will never get a table.”
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Well I am sorry, but this is far too good to keep under my hat, were I to wear one.

First surprise for me is that Hangleton Manor is such a fine building, a real delight and one that rather than being cosseted is being put to good uses. I like an ancient monument as much as the next man, in fact I am close to being one as I plough deeper into my fifties, one of the stately homo’s of England as my old friend Quentin Crisp put it.

“In a post festive mood four of us were on soft drinks with only Mr L on wine and even he was being restrained, at least by his standards which says very little”

Filling an ancient building with a busy pub and dining room seems to me entirely fitting, especially if it affords the owners the money to keep it in good repair. I rather liked the look here, robust and fun and the food followed the same course, as did the Gents’ where the speakers were playing classic Kenneth Williams sketches, what a nice idea.

I went along with a group of friends for Sunday lunch. I had a bit of a craving for crackling as it happened, so the invitation was very welcome. I was the eldest in our party and Jasmine the youngest at 12. Let it not be said that her age or mine reflected our appetites, she far out-ate me, not that I would encourage that kind of competition, but she does have a hearty ability to consume, and bless her, a mature palate too. I put that down to her parents always including her in their foodie adventures, and as a consequence she has eaten in some rather fine restaurants.

In a post-festive mood four of us were on soft drinks, with only Mr L on wine and even he was being restrained, at least by his standards which says very little.
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We decided to go for it and ordered starters and mains. Mr L began with a pork paté and toast which came with a good chutney and in large portions. He declared it excellent as did Jasmine of her prawn cocktail when she finally lifted her head far enough from the crustaceans to comment. K and J shared a platter of foods, a bargain deal I reckon that included a cheddar cheese tart, roast vegetables, prosciutto, pickles, garlic foccacia… I think that was it but forgive me if I am wrong. It would be best described as a small picnic that, even with our help, the two of them could not finish.

I chose mushroom soup and it was very nice, rich and… well mushroomy.

To follow I had pork and so did J. It was very nice too, lean and tender with a nice piece of crackling that to my mind could have done with a touch more salt. The roast potatoes were good too and so was the gravy which although plated had not flooded the dish. There was a Yorkshire pudding too, which I ate, despite feeling that it was misplaced with pork. Apple sauce was in short supply and disappointing. K had lamb, again plentiful and Jas chicken, a half rather than slices, generous but I never feel it looks like a proper Sunday meal. The vegetables came in dishes and were all good although there were far too many. Full marks though for carrots with carrot flavour and not crunch or watery tasteless mush.

Mr L was taken in by an offer of pork ribs. I’ve seen him do it before in the hope of recapturing a favourite dish of years gone by. He received a vast plate which was half fries and half a bowl heaped with ribs in a very sticky sauce. He liked them well enough but was clearly over-faced. I thought it would have looked better with half the quantity of both chips and ribs, and instead a big salad, to which he agreed. Given that he could not finish them it could be a way forward.

For pud I made light work of excellent ice-cream as did Mr L and K. J and Jas went to work on a lemon meringue pie and an apple pie, both huge and both defeating them.

Despite a few minor quibbles, picky old me, this was excellent and great value. It’s no wonder people have been keeping schtumm!

Hangleton Manor, Hangleton Valley Drive, Hove, East Sussex
01273 413266 | Map

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