WOOD FIRE & VINE: HOTEL DU VIN
How lovely it is to a return to a place where once I spent so much time. When Hotel du Vin first opened I was kindly made an ambassador. This meant that I was able to bring guests, friends and business colleagues to dine and drink. In my first week the then manager declared that he was disappointed. I had been in only three times and they hoped that I would be there most days. I bucked up my ideas and for six months I virtually lived there.
The place is looking as good as ever, better even since they painted out the “mural”, and the atmosphere still exudes class and quality The bistro has always served classic French dishes but on this occasion I was here to enjoy an evening of Sicilian food served al fresco in the courtyard. Joining me for the evening was my beautiful niece E and after a quick drink in the bar we headed out to find what was on offer.
Hotel du Vin’s Sunday market table has always been a generous delight and this time the table was laid with Italian treats, great focaccia, olives, toasted nuts, pickles, salami and prosciutto, burrata, tomatoes… oh and the best caponata that I have tested since being in Sicily. There I ate it every day and each time time was told that it was the chef’s grandmother’s recipe and the best in the whole of Sicily. Some had capers, some sultanas but the differences were to be honest marginal, and with tiny capers, this one was pretty good. And helped down with a glass of sparkling Sicilian white what could be nicer.
The main part of the meal is meaty, and cooked over wood. The choice was rib of beef, herb fed chicken or seabass. E is not a fish fan so we decided to have chicken and beef. The chicken was great full of flavour and we had a good balance of breast meat and dark meat which I always prefer. The beef rib was simply perfect, our slices medium rare and succulent. The taste of the wood fire was properly present but not overbearingly so, and it was properly seasoned too. And there was plenty of it with the option of going back for more. Frankly I had made a bit of a pig of myself with the starters and with the excellent roasted vegetables and potatoes.
And for once I indulged in some rather good Sicilian red wine, not often a heavy drinker these days, I was swept along on a wave of nostalgia for that beautiful island.
Dessert, yes in the interest of being thorough as always, was a lemon polenta cake. Properly lemony if a little dry and slightly singed which I have always liked. Mum would occasionally burn a cake slightly but would never say it was burnt but would refer to it as being “sharp-baked”! I grew to love those chestnut brown edge bits so this one really hit the spot for me.
An evening of delicious food and delightful service from the lovely Bella who looked after our every need!
The whole event is being repeated on Thursday the 20th of August and at £49 for three courses, including a glass of that sparkling white to start, is in these days of expensive dining, something of a treat, especially on a balmy summer’s evening.
Booking is recommended online or by phone
hotelduvin.com
01273855221
2 Ship St, Brighton, Brighton and Hove, Brighton BN1 1AD
