Hot to go

Andrew Kay talks to Alun and Dawn Sperring, the dynamic couple behind Brighton’s hugely successful Chilli Pickle restaurant and new take-away service Chilli Pickle Canteen

Alun and Dawn Sperring arrived in Brighton a few years ago with a clear vision. They wanted to create a very special kind of restaurant, a restaurant that celebrated regional Indian cuisine, and, in particular, street food. They were way ahead of the game with the interest in street food, a foodie fashion that in the last year has really taken off, especially in London, but they were doing it in Brighton’s Lanes way before that, and it’s a theme they continue to use.

The original Chilli Pickle restaurant was small, the kitchen smaller still, but it didn’t stop Alun from creating dishes that soon had the town buzzing. When word got out about his oxtail Madras and an amazing crab claw dish, food lovers were beating a path to their door.

Out front Dawn was in charge and, as with their passion for regional dishes, she two was championing great beers, continental, Asian and, of course, British. There was also a passion for loose leaf tea, a passion I share, and the varieties were and still are delightful.

Their popularity was soon evident with a full diary of bookings, and the dining room and kitchen were simply no longer big enough to cope. The only thing to do was to expand but in that location it was impossible so new premises had to be found.

When news leaked that they were to take over the vast restaurant space at Myhotel the reaction was mixed. Zilli had failed, and Table fared no better despite being popular with some, they simply could not fill the space and make it work.

Chilli Pickle was already popular but could it make that giant leap from 48 covers in one sitting to 120? The answer is yes; they now have a massively popular restaurant where they regularly serve 1,500 diners every week and often many more.

Alun loves his kitchen, inherited from the Zilli regime, it is massive and brilliantly equipped. Of course he has added specialist equipment as needed to create the dishes Chilli Pickle is now famous for. He has also continued to bring talented regional chefs from India to work there and, currently, they have English apprentices from City College who are keen to learn about Indian food. Alun is keen to emphasise that they are there for work experience as it is not a school, but delighted that they are so interested in what he and his team do.

They now have a head chef from Delhi meaning, after five years policing the pass, Alun has more time to explore new dishes. They plan to squeeze in an Indian trip this summer, and to oversee their new venture The Chilli Pickle Canteen.

Chilli Pickle Canteen is a new concept in Indian take-away food that Alun and Dawn have worked hard to create. Each dish available has been created to survive transport, and whilst the menu is not as extensive as the a la carte offering they are confident it will arrive with you in an excellent condition. As well as researching those dishes, they have also invested in brilliant bespoke packaging that looks good, keeps the food well, and is as green as possible. They are very aware of being sustainable and green, hating waste, and this was not an area they were prepared to skimp on.

The Chilli Pickle Canteen service is offered to customers within a two-mile radius of the restaurant and is delivered in their own branded vehicles. If you live further afield you can still use the service by collecting yourself and they have created a bright waiting area for people who choose this option.

So how can they cope on top of the bustling restaurant to offer a new take-away service? The answer lies below ground where they have a huge prep kitchen. By day it is busy with chefs grinding spices, creating batter for the superb dosa pancakes and making ready for the onslaught in the upstairs kitchen for lunch and dinner. But by night the space was quiet. Not for long. Alun and Dawn had been besieged by requests for take-away, but were not happy to provide a service until they were confident that the food would match in quality the food in the restaurant. They now use the downstairs kitchen to service the take-away menu leaving the upstairs kitchen to deal with diners, a brilliant solution and one that makes the most of their space.

Having tried it I can vouch for that take-away quality too. I loved the thalis we had (what better way to get a real taste of dishes than a set of fifteen carefully chosen to work together?). And compared to alternatives there is little difference in price from other take-away menus, especially when you see the range of dishes that arrive for the one price.

Chilli Pickle may have the look of a massively successful chain with its stunning interiors, but all was achieved by the family pulling together, pooling resources and skills. Dawn’s father did the woodwork and he still helps out on a weekly basis with childcare for their young son Stanley, already
a keen fan of his father’s cooking.

Despite global recession, the Chilli Pickle is a huge success story with a string of awards, a deeply loyal client base and visitors who are prepared to travel miles to find out more about the hottest restaurant on the curry scene – and beyond.

So what’s next for Brighton’s hot business success? Are they seeking those much coveted stars? Alun and Dawn are keen to say that whilst recognition from guides such as Michelin and the AA is special, the most important thing for them is to keep new and old customers coming back and to continue to exceed their expectations

“The key to this has always been being consistent in our standards, staying fresh and innovative,” says Alun. “We have never gone out specifically to achieve awards and accolades. That said, winning ‘Best Casual Dining’ at The British Curry Awards last year and being named one of the top 100 restaurants in the UK at The National Restaurant Awards two years in a row were very proud moments.”

And how is it working together? “We wanted to create a business where we could be together. We had spent years in Dubai and only saw each other in passing and once a week if we were lucky. Here we have our own areas to look after, Alun in the kitchens and I am out front. It works well, we have a real understanding of what we are trying to achieve. Above all this is about being professional, and that works.”

As a regular diner I can vouch for that, great food and great service in lovely surroundings and at a range of prices that make it accessible. Chilli Pickle Canteen is equally attractive, delicious food in your own home. It does beg the question – what will they do next? As long as they maintain such an excellent standard of service here I see no reason to worry, just to wish them the best of luck.

The Chilli Pickle, 17 Jubilee Street
Brighton, BN1 1GE,
Restaurant: 01273 900383
Chilli Pickle Canteen: 01273 900384
www.thechillipickle.com‎
www.thechillipicklecanteen.com