Fresh ideas
Andrew Kay in praise of Brighton’s new and hard fought for Farmers’ Market
Who would have thought that it would take two years of hard talking and dare I say it fighting, to establish a regular farmers’ market here in Brighton? Food plays such a huge part in our lives and here in Brighton our food offering was judged to be a major factor in why people choose to move here. So why oh why has it taken so long to get this off the ground? Well, let’s not bog ourselves down with the hard history and cut straight to the facts. After a long battle permission was finally granted to hold a monthly Farmers’ Market on a disused bus lane by the war memorial at the Old Steine. Now that is what I call real recycling. A dead spot of land in a prime position now has a real reason to exist.
I went along to the very first market as it was being set up and chatted to the traders about what they hoped it would achieve. Naturally they were all apprehensive, after all, the mark of a real success for them is if they sell their produce. I was unable to shop properly that day as I had to go on to host another Gourmet Sussex Bus Tour, but I did manage to bag some green garlic for supper that night.
The men largely behind the market are Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival managing director Nick Mosley and co director Frank Jay. Both were very determined that the market should truly represent local foods above anything else and that fresh produce and locally produced foodstuffs should be at the heart of the offering. I’m right behind them on that having seen too many ‘farmers markets’ debased by the inclusion of craft stalls and the like.
It was a delight then to walk between the rows of stalls and see such a fantastic array of fresh produce, from beautiful breads, cakes, jams and pies to fresh fruit, vegetables and even cut flowers. The quality and freshness of the vegetables was amazing. I lingered long at the Barcombe Nurseries stall and tasted delicious red mustard leaves and lusted over a mound of sea kale. If only I had not been going onward I would have been happy to do my shopping there and then.
I loved the Sultan’s Delights stall where I tasted the very best baba ganoush I have ever had, a full smoky hit of creamy aubergine, something I will be returning for at the next market. Opposite, Magpie Pies caught my attention as they unloaded trays of amazing vegetarian delights, squash tarts and cheese pies with red berries. I was too early for their meaty offerings but I guarantee I will be back there too.
One stall was piled with amazing veg and stunning fresh herbs, some of which I simply had never seen before. The stall holder was happy to help and explained not only what they were but what they would be good with and also their heath benefits. She also had a mountain of beautiful and vibrant cut flowers and a mound of my very favourite anemones.
Across the way I found more delicious bread and cakes and a range of local cheeses too, then some stunning hummus and finally my old friend Yolande who makes things with hemp seeds that are not only delicious but also lay claim to amazing health benefits. I met her in Kingston upon Thames last year and she rubbed my bad leg with a hemp-based ointment and massaged it vigorously. It was the most impactful massage I had ever experienced but an hour later my leg felt a whole lot better. Later that day, trapped on a late train back nome, her hemp snack more than bridged a gap before dinner.
By lunchtime that day I was at Newick Park dining on fine foods before heading off to Wobblegate and WJ King’s Brewery in Horsham. I checked my Twitter account and local Green MP Caroline Lucas, a strong supporter of the food festival and the market, had reported that the market was a roaring success. Brighton’s new Farmers’ Market was trending on Twitter.
We decided to check out what was happening and called Frank Jay. He answered and said that the place was stormed and that traders were already selling out of stock and declaring it a huge success.
It’s great to see that something we all believed would work actually has and no doubt the next event will be bigger and better as the weather improves and the produce comes rolling in. Let’s hope we have fresh meats, cheese and maybe fish next time.
Councillor Geoffrey Bowden, who has been behind the scheme, came along at 9.30am to cut the ribbon and declare the market open. Let’s hope that next month he returns with his fellow councillors to do their shopping and help Brighton keep its food offering as green as possible.
The next Brighton Farmers’ Market is Saturday 18 May from 10am–4pm and will feature a children’s planting activity hosted by Rockinghorse and the festival team. For further information visit the festival website at www.brightonfoodfestival.com
