A singel man

Andrew Kay enjoys a foodie weekend in the mediaeval city of Utrecht

I know, I know, I’m back in the Netherlands once again. This time in the beautiful city of Utrecht for a weekend of history and fine food. Utrecht is small and, dare I say it, perfectly formed. Perfectly formed for a weekend visit, that’s for sure. Only a short rail journey from Schiphol airport, the city centre, mediaeval in origin, is bounded by one circular canal, the singel, and traversed by two other canals, the old and the new. What makes it strikingly different from Amsterdam is that the old canal is bordered by wharfs at cellar level. Once used by the city’s busy traders, it now provides a perfect location for the busy café and restaurant scene and even on an autumn evening the people of Utrecht love to sit out and enjoy a drink or a meal.
We were staying at the stylish new Mary K hotel on the old canal. The owner has created a quirky modern boutique hotel that does not go short on comfort and serves perhaps the best continental breakfast I have ever experienced and one that does not use a display of slowly ageing foods on a buffet.
Once installed in my fantastic room we walked into the city centre, a ten minute stroll, to enjoy the first of a series of great meals.
Oliver is a fashionable eatery in what was once a clandestine church, and much of the original church remains in place. With a huge list of beers, some scarily strong, I went for mussels and chips and pretty damned good they were too, in fact I would say that the chips were amongst the best I have ever had. So too were the mussels and they came in huge quantity.
After lunch we strolled once again, there is no need for public transport or taxis, to the Museum Catherijneconvent. Here a senior curator gave us a stunning tour of some of her favourite works in the collection of religious art ranging from the early mediaeval period to the 21st century. It’s a huge collection that encompasses both catholic and protestant art and it is beautifully displayed.

“You are never far away from art, or a decent meal, in any Dutch town or city”

and Utrecht has a clever outdoor art exhibit called Trajectum Lumen where artists and designers have created light installations across the city centre. Some are fun, some pretty and some extraordinary but following the route on our way to dinner was fascinating.
Dinner was at the very smart Karel V Hotel in the Brasserie Goeie Louisa where the chefs cook at an open kitchen amongst the diners. Our dinner was pretty amazing too, stylish modern cooking with, as so many British chefs do, the emphasis on local seasonal produce. I loved the seabass with a pearl barley risotto and the petit four were exemplary. What really impressed though was the stunning service, the kind that one expects from a hotel of this calibre. The next day was filled with more sightseeing. You cannot visit Utrecht without encountering Moffi, the creation of Dick Bruna and a visit to the Centraal Museum and his ‘House’ is a must. But then so are the shops of Utrecht which, with a huge number of independent retailers, offer a cool alternative to the usual Euro-high-street experience.
Sightseeing is easily done by a canal tour or on foot but my favourite experience was a visit to Brewery Oudaen. Housed in an ancient city centre tradesman’s house that has been used for many purpose over the years. It is now home to a micro brewery, bar and restaurant. But we started in the cellar with the coolest of brewers who by day makes beer and by night studies philosophy. The beers are great ranging from a Pilsner to a wheat beer to a dark and complex brew. The process is simple in essence and clearly explained but before long we were craving food to mop up the beer we were tasting. Up in the restaurant we sat down to a tasting menu of epic quality. It may not have the accolades of other restaurants in terms of awards but this was a fine meal of real quality with which we drank some great wine too. Course after course arrived, great soups and fish and meat, too many dishes to list and also a menu created that day in an ever changing selection once again based on the best of local seasonal produce.