Smashing success

Andrew Kay smashes the coconut and cuts the ribbon at the new Chaula’s in Brighton

I happened upon Chaula’s some years ago on a visit to Lewes. I can’t remember now whether I was on my way to Glyndebourne or to endure some morris dancing, probably Glyndebourne. Anyway, I was feeling peckish, which is my usual state, and drifted up Station Street in search of food, where I found Chaula’s.

I left with several bags containing kachori and petis and by the time I got back to my car I had eaten the lot. They were so delicious in fact, that I walked back and bought some more. Chaula’s became a place of pilgrimage. When they expanded and the cafe and restaurant opened, my only complaint was that it was in Lewes and not in Brighton. Now I am delighted to see that they have come to their senses and found a great new location here in Brighton, a city that loves great Indian food. When an email arrived asking me if I would cut the ribbon at their opening, I was both delighted and honoured.

Chaula and her team have undertaken a massive overhaul of the new premises. Downstairs has an Indian village theme with a huge oil on canvas mural depicting rural Asian life. Upstairs the look is vibrant and modern, equally nice but without the mural to look at.

“I was handed a coconut, the hairy end of which was set alight. I was then invited to smash it open on the doorstep, a tradition that will bring good fortune”

The opening was a fun event too. I prepared a few words and waited to be handed a pair of scissors. But Instead I was handed a coconut, the hairy end of which had been set alight. I was then invited to smash it open on the doorstep, a tradition that will bring good fortune. Being something of a wimp I was nervous that rather than smashing open, it would simply bounce and either break a window or hit a guest on the head and give them concussion. So I gave it every ounce of effort I could muster and threw the thing hard on the brick step where fortunately it smashed and sprayed my legs with coconut water. After that I was given the scissors, cut the ribbon and dashed inside for a much needed pint of Cobra.

The general buzz was that of excitement. Many fans of Chaula’s cooking had come along to celebrate the new venue and the champagne, your actual French, was flowing liberally (although I did stick to beer, it being a school night). The big treat of the evening though was the decision not to serve messy canapes but to give us a full buffet of delights. I started with a plate of delicios pakora, samosa, chicken tikka and minced lamb kebab with a few poppadoms and a big dollop of lime pickle, all delicious.

I later returned and had excellent lamb and chicken curries, paneer with peas and plain rice. Chaula and her chefs certainly know how to season and to spice and each dish was admirably individual. To finish I had the rose, saffron and pistachio ice cream, which I absolutely love. So now there is a Chaula’s here in town which is great news. Their food is traditional, regional and very satisfying and it’s all served with a great deal of charm and good humour. Funnily enough, a smiling waiter can lift the quality of any dining experience and at Chaula’s they are beaming from ear to ear.

I wish them all the best in their new venture and I urge you to give it a go. I’m sure, like me, there will be lots to make you smile as much as the staff. As I left a kindly lady praised my coconut smashing skills. “You did it perfectly, the coconut broke exactly in the right way to ensure good luck!” Had I known that there was a wrong way, I would have been even more terrified!
Chaula’s, 2-3 Little East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HT
01273 771661, www.chaulas.co.uk