Andrew Kay does pre-show supper at the Brighton Centre
Centre spread
A few months back I found myself writing about the massive improvements made at the Brighton Centre. It may be getting on in years now, but the team that run it, and the recent investment in the fabric of the building have made a massive difference. Apart from the new fascia and easier access, there have been improvements throughout and none more dramatic than to the third floor bar and restaurant. Here the crazy split level has been removed and revealed stunning views along the coast. The décor has been simplified and has a more contemporary feel and for certain performances there is a restaurant, serving a two course pre-show dinner.
With tickets to see the legend that is Joan Rivers, an accolade that she more than earned that night with a ripping set that proved her to be one of the comic geniuses of the last 50 years for sure, we booked in for dinner.
Arriving at 6.30pm was no hardship, it was a vile evening and not one that you would have wanted to be out on. The idea of dinner pre-show is always tempting, but it always carries the worry of timing and perhaps missing the kick off. Being in situ was both easy and relaxing.
The menu goes straight to mains followed by pud. Mr R chose the rump of lamb with Mediterranean vegetables and olive oil mash, and pretty good it looked too. He certainly seemed to enjoy it and declared that the lamb was excellent, tasty and tender.
Mr S and I chose the chicken breast with sautéed cabbage and a fondant potato. It was exactly the kind of heart-warming dish for a blustery evening that seemed to mark the end of a pretty dismal summer. The chicken was more than generous, the sauce rich and the cabbage tasty. The fondant potato was a game of two halves. They’re not easy to get right and require a lot of attention. These had received enough attention for one side to have achieved the correct texture of fluffy potato bathed in rich stock and then coated in a fine buttery crust. The other side had been left a little long to the ferocity of the oven and was rather more like a roast potato. It’s a minor complaint as it was still delicious.
For dessert, Mr R had a baked cheesecake which disappeared pretty damned fast. Mr S and I had the panacotta with mulled wine fruit compote. It was good, the creamy base perhaps a little firm, but deliciously tasty nonetheless.
At £19.95 for two courses and a glass of wine it’s pretty good value too and the service is exemplary, charming and efficient, despite Ms River’s attempts to scupper that with her wayward ways. If there was one thing I would improve it would be the lighting, the sleek black theme looks nice but it is all a bit on the dark side and our window table, with excellent views, certainly needed at least a candle. Easily remedied. It’s certainly worthwhile checking on the availability of dining as part of your Brighton Centre visit.
The Brighton Centre, King’s Road, Brighton, BN1 2GR, 01273 290131, www.brightoncentre.co.uk
