Hot tip
Andrew Kay enjoys the award-winning food at Karim’s, where they are celebrating 25 years
Much as I love the modern movement in Indian cuisine, there are moments where what I most desire is the calming comfort of a more traditional curry dinner. But on so many occasions that thought is thwarted by indifferent cooking and service. Not at Karim’s.
Karim’s is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, quite a record for any restaurant, especially given the tough time the industry has been having in this recession. Owner and Chef Din talks like a true Brightonian, he is passionate about the place and passionate about his food. The restaurant was the first in Brighton to offer baltis, and he has always had an eye on the new with innovative fusion dishes for those of us who like an adventure.
The restaurant is modern in design and very warm and welcoming. Mr R and I had enjoyed a busy Saturday and we were both ready for a good supper. We started with a couple of poppadoms, it would be rude not to, and I had a beer, very welcome it was too.
The starter, raj khana, was served in a small chafing dish which contained a selection of dishes for two. We loved them all; the succulent cubes of chicken tikka, crisp aloo pakora, finely minced sheek kebab and delicate bhajees all hit the right spot. But it was the samosa that had me waxing lyrical. I remember my first samosa, bought in a newsagents in Balham when I was 18. It contained potato, peas and minced lamb but above all it contained cinnamon. The flavour remained with me as over the years the quality of samosas to my mind seemed to deteriorate. At Karim’s the samosas were simply delicious crisp envelopes of sweet minced lamb with just the right amount of potato and that delicious hit of cinnamon.
Our main courses were equally good. With one traditional dish, a chicken patilla that was warm with earthy spices, onion and ginger and a second dish from the list of fusion concepts.
At Din’s suggestion we had a dish that combined sliced chicken breast with a sauce of cashew nuts and apricots. It was delicious, the nuts adding a creamy note, the apricots an element of sweet and gently sour. On the side excellent rice and great plain naan bread added the necessary carbohydrate balance for all that rich sauce. Added to which we enjoyed a sag aloo in which the spinach took centre stage and a tarka dall that was rich and creamy. I would happily sit down to a lunch of just that tarka dall.
Perfectly satisfied we finished with a coffee before making the journey home. All the way back we complained that Karim’s is so far from where we live, but also agreed that it was well worth the journey and that we would certainly be back.
Karim’s, 15 Blatchington Road, Hove, BN3 3YP,
01273 739780/821675, www.karimsrestaurant.co.uk
