Andrew Kay raves over the food at Mexican restaurant La Choza
Hat dance
Those of you with good memories will remember that I am not a fan of Mexican food. In the past I have been somewhat dismissive of the entire cuisine, not even sure if the word cuisine is appropriate. Well, now I am going to surprise you all by favourably reviewing a newish place in Brighton.
Some of you have already discovered La Choza, I know this because at the weekends getting a table is as difficult as finding the proverbial hen’s teeth. And I am sure that some of you will not welcome what follows as it may well increase that problem. For that I apologise, but for my about turn of Mexican nosh I do not.
Mr R, the husband, is a massive fan of Mexican food. When we first met I took him on a date to London and asked him what he would like to eat. He said Mexican and my heart sank, but we did have a good time fuelled by rather too many margaritas. Since then, I have made him my Texan chilli frequently but I shy away from Mexican restaurants. That was until Mr M met me for lunch at La Choza. I have returned many times now and loved each visit.
So, what’s the big deal? Well it’s simple street food, unpretentious, inexpensive and utterly delicious. Do not expect a massive menu of rare gastronomy. The menu is short but sweet, a sequence of basic dishes, a selection of toppings and salsa and a blackboard with changing daily specials.
I recommend that you start with a margarita. I like the classic cheek shrivelling style but I also enjoyed a frozen hibiscus flower one in the summer sun. Follow this with the chicharrones, Mexican pork scratchings, the hit shots – stuffed deep fried chillies and the squid with lime and chipotle mayo. The squid is as good as it comes, really it is.
So far I have tried a variety of the main courses, from salads to burritos, quesadillas and tosatadas and topped them with slow cooked beef, Mexican chorizo, deep fried catch of the day and pit smoked pulled pork. They all arrive in kitsch little coloured plastic baskets and they all taste fab, especially when you add the salsa. They start with pico de gallo – a mild green salsa, cooked chipotle salsa which is medium and habenero salsa which is hot, and left my friend Mr M a jibbering drooling wreck, such a lightweight!
Desserts are simple: a warm chilli brownie or churros with a choice of dulce de leche or chocolate sauce. Heaven!
On our last visit we ate lots, drank lots and left having paid a bill of £20 each, and that included three drinks a head. So it’s not only tasty and fun, it’s cheap and cheerful. I don’t think they take bookings so be prepared to be patient and wait, they will call you if you wish to wait in the local pub, an attractive option I always think.
La Choza, 36 Gloucester Road, Brighton BN1 4AQ 01273 945926, www.lachoza.co.uk
