Andrew Kay goes back to Chaula’s, a year after their Brighton opening
A birthday treat
Being asked to open Chaula’s Brighton venue was a huge honour. I first met Chaula in Lewes when she opened an Indian food outlet that sold divine snacks and amazing meals for the freezer. It was only a matter of time before demand would force her to open a proper restaurant, which she did in the heart of the county town to much acclaim. On my last visit there she told me that she was desperate to find good premises to open in Brighton and eventually she did in Little East Street.
At the opening just over a year ago I said a few words, threw a flaming coconut at the doorstep and declared it open. It was a great night and sadly when they celebrated this year I was unable to attend. Not to worry though, as I popped along as soon as I was well again to see just how things were going.
Chaula is passionate about her food and her heritage, but she is also an innovator, always looking at new dishes in a way that many Indian restaurants do not. Cuisine of any kind should never be set in stone like a museum piece. Whilst there is always room for classics there should equally be space for new ideas that reflect the world we live in and the foods we can sustainably produce. Chaula has already outlawed ghee, the rich clarified butter traditionally used in southern Asian cooking, for a lighter oil. It’s a good move and it certainly makes her food lighter but with little impact on the flavours.
And flavour is very much what Chaula’s food is about. In her kitchen she and the team work hard to create deliciously spicy dishes with interesting sauces, great textures and beautiful presentation. I took along two food-loving friends, the very spicy Mr J and Ms L; strangely, they had never encountered the lovely Chaula or her food.
I took the very best step possible: gathered together the menus, handed them back to Chaula and requested that she choose our dinner. She smiled and disappeared backstage to get things started.
First out some poppadoms, not too many but two of the delicious massala variety, plain crisp and topped with a confetti of herbs and chillis. They have that great combo of fresh and crispy and I love them. Next a Bhel Puri salad, best eaten at speed as the crisp shells filled with a crunchy mix of spices and grains, soft chickpeas, tamarind, chilli and yoghurt works best when it is first made.
This was followed by a platter of vegetarian starters and one of meat. The samosas were sensational, filled with lamb, chicken and vegetables they were a meal in themselves. The kebab was heartily spiced, the Tandoori chicken wings had the full flavour of cooking over intense heat, and the chicken tikka was soft and succulent. On the vegetable platter there were onion bhajees that were crisp and light, and kachori that I first tried from her take-away. I also loved the patra – or elephant’s-ear plant – which has to tried, I promise you.
Our main course was sensibly balanced, a new dish called chicken sarjahani. It’s a chicken fillet stuffed with lamb kheema and served with mild creamy and kadai sauces garnished with almonds – and it’s plenty for two. A real celebration of a dish that looks as good as it tastes and it tasted brilliant! This she coupled with a lamb and chilli dish that bristled with green fire but not so much that the palate was damaged. A naan was crisp and even, the rice light and fluffy, and a spinach bhajee vibrant. The aubergine was cooked so well that it was like gently spiced hot cream.
The others declared a lack of interest in an Indian dessert but I knew better. Too many opt out with lame sorbets packed into ice-age citrus fruits, but not Chaula. I ordered carrot halwa with pistachio ice cream and three spoons – I knew the others would not be able to resist. I was right, and I think that between us we convinced them that Indian dessert are a must try when you get the chance.
Chaula’s is also very affordable, nothing is overpriced in my view and you can eat very well without having to take on a second mortgage. I also love the quirky interior. Upstairs is chic and modern but I love the village feel of the ground floor with the huge mural, beaded lampshades and front end of a tuc-tuc. The addition of a chill cabinet of Indian sweetmeats is a rather dangerous thing, with spice in my mouth and the knowledge that sugar soothes any fire, I could easily fall into the trap of going home with a hamper of carrot halwa.
Chaula is a star and I am proud to know her and to enjoy her food. On her excellent website there is a picture of us together. A few people have asked her if I was her husband. Well, if I could eat that way every day… but please don’t tell Mr R!
Chaula’s, 2-3 Little East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HT, 01273 771661, www.chaulas.co.uk
