Andrew Kay waddles into Wagamama and wadlles out again with a smile on his face

Brighton and Hove has made its name on the strength of great independent businesses. We simply love it home grown – in every sense, from local entrepreneurs to local produce. So much so, that we can be somewhat dismissive of the chains – I know I can be, but at the same time, when travelling around the country, there is some comfort in knowing that in certain restaurants you can get a reliably decent plate of food.

Some chains do an excellent job of putting decent food on a plate for a sensible sum of money – and amongst them is Wagamama.

With our recent enforced exile from our home due to collapsing ceilings we did eat out rather more than we usually do, and our temporary home was but a stone’s throw from Wagamama so we popped in.

Driven down by the homeless status we wanted something to lift our spirits and for both of us that can be done with spicy food. I don’t know if there is science in that but it certainly works for us. (Chocolate has a similar effect but the least said about our chocolate habit, the better.)

Wagamama looked good when it opened and it still does; the long table and bench concept works well, the scribbled order on your paper mat works too and so do the crayons – for kids and grown ups.

To start we ordered the crispy squid with chilli and the chicken gyoza. The squid was perfect and plentiful, tender inside and crunchy out, and the chilli sauce packed a punch. It went down very well indeed. The gyoza, or dumplings, are one of my favourite things to eat and I love them steamed, fried or grilled. At Wagamama they are nicely toasted on the edges and that adds that indefinable appeal of something that has the slight taste of being burnt or should I say singed.

Both portions arrived at the table piping hot and in good quantities; there are times when I like to see a full plate and this was certainly one of them.

Mr R had taken advice from a work colleague and ordered yaki udon – teppan-fried udon noodles in curry oil with chicken, prawns, chikuwa, egg, beansprouts, leeks, mushrooms and peppers, garnished with fried shallots, pickled ginger and sesame seeds, quite a mouthful in every sense – and he loved it, really loved it.

I was in the mood for fresh green things so searched for a salad and fell upon ginger beef and coriander salad – seared steak with caramelised red onions, beansprouts, red pepper, cucumber, carrot, mooli, ginger and coriander tossed with mixed leaves and Wagamama house dressing, then garnished with sesame seeds. I loved mine too and it was tossed well with bits of everything appearing with each mouthful. I liked it so much in fact, that a few days later I went back and tried the mandarin and sesame chicken salad, marinated chicken with mixed leaves, mandarin, coriander, red and spring onions, mangetout and cashew nuts with a sesame, mandarin, thai basil and mint dressing, totally zingy and refreshing and also satisfying in size.

We were having such a good time, me with a beer and Mr R with a Diet Coke, that we decided to go full out and have a dessert. I was feeling fresh so chose the frozen yoghurt which I liked, especially the passion fruit. Mr R has a thing for cheesecake and loved their passion fruit one. I gave it a go and found it almost buttery in its richness which he said was the best thing, but I found it too much.

On my return visit I ordered an apple, mint, celery and lime juice which I really loved. It gave me a bit of a lift at the end of a long and tiring week.

Wagamama is a pretty smart operation, well thought through, well run and sensibly priced. There’s no pressure to eat a huge meal, you can dine to suit your taste and your appetite, and you can do it pretty damned quick if you need to move fast. Conversely, you can relax and take your time should you wish. Prices are sensible too with main courses for under or around £10.

I have also browsed their excellent website and discovered that you can order take-away online and they have launched an app that you can use to order take-away too.

Wagamama, The Argus Building, 30 Kensington Street, off North Road, Brighton BN1 4AJ, 01273 688892, www.wagamama.com