Wagyu beef at The Brunswick and Easter treats from Carluccio’s
Beefy!
Two years ago I spent an afternoon in Belgium eating wagyu beef. It’s the most expensive beef in the world and I probably got through the equivalent of a month’s salary – pre tax! It was a delicious experience but one that I doubt I will ever be able to repeat – sadly.
A week ago I was invited to attend a wagyu supper club at The Brunswick in Hove. It was to be my second visit to a supper club at the pub and I joined some food festival chums for what was to be an excellent evening.
Chef Ed has, over the last few months, developed two menus, one pub grub and one gastro pub. The supper clubs are ticketed events that seem to be taking place on a monthly basis, and wagyu was certainly not one to miss.
We started down in the pub with a few drinks to knock the sharp corners of the day before heading up to one of the upstairs dining rooms. I like these more intimate spaces, although on this occasion our table was underlit and we had to second the candles for the windows in order to be able to see our supper.
But my, what a supper. Ed started by giving us a short talk about the produce, the Japanese beef, mushrooms from Paris… it was a very enticing menu. And our first dish of garlicky mushrooms on toast did not disappoint, creamy mushrooms sandwiched between toasted bread, what’s not to like?
Our second dish was inspired; scallops served with a crisp onion bhajee was sweet and savoury in just the right measure. And it was the right size too, satisfying without being too big.
On then to the main event, the famous wagyu. Ed took a moment to explain that in his mind this beef should be prepared medium rare and that if anyone wanted it different then speak now. He also told the assembled crowd that when on a previous occasion he had cooked a steak for me, when asked how I liked it I had replied “perfect!”, which is indeed how I like my steak and I trust that any decent chef, having bought and seen the meat, will know exactly how to achieve that.
My wagyu was indeed perfect, the heavily marbled red meat was succulent, piping hot but still bloody at the core. It came with excellent fried onions and a plate of exemplary chips. There was no sauce, it didn’t need one, and it was truly delicious.
Given that the heart of the dinner was a very fine steak my friend Ms G de V was worried that as a vegetarian she would be disappointed, but her two alternative dishes, both of which I tasted, were excellent, packed with flavour and nicely presented.
As with the first event, dessert was served back in the bar, a choice of chocolate cake, gluten free, or cheese. I was far too full for either and did not want to lose the flavour of that excellent beef.
The next event is 30 April and will be a ‘Nose to Tail’, with a full pig being butchered at the Brunswick and used to create the full menu, which will include elements of pig cheek (terrine), crispy ears, pressed belly, 24hr smoked roasted rib and Asian style fillet; not one for Ms G de V but I hope to get along.
The Brunswick, 1-3 Holland Road, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 1JF
01273 733984
www.thatchefbloke.com info@thatchefbloke.com
Easter treats
With just over a week to go until the Easter bank holiday weekend, you might want to start thinking about treats. I love Italian Easter cakes but with so many dull ones hitting the supermarket shelves it is certainly worth seeking out one of quality. At Carluccio’s you can pick up a Colomba Grande, a truly scrumptious bread/cake packed with fruit and topped with a sugar and almond crust. Totally moreish and plenty to go around. I also love their hand decorated chocolate eggs which have that real artisan quality. Mine was filled with mandarin flavoured chocolates and yes, I know, I should not have opened it yet. I am a very bad person.
Carluccio’s, Jubilee Street, Brighton, BN1 1GE
01273 690493
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