Stunning jewellery from House Of Hoye
Sparkling ideas
Andrew Kay returns to Jeremy Hoye with a commission for the revitalised House Of Hoye and leaves filled with inspiration and high hopes
When Jeremy Hoye first opened his sparkling jewellery emporium all those years ago, I was among the first to cross the threshold. Back then I wore a lot of jewellery, and I loved what I saw. So did many other people.
Jeremy’s work was refreshingly modern but classically stylish, and it was made to what was clearly a very high standard.
I soon became a regular customer and so did my friends and family. There was something very different about what he was doing, and a feeling that you were not just buying jewellery but buying something collectible, something that would not only retain its value but continue to grow. Now, nearly 20 years on, I still own and wear all of the pieces that I have – and I want more.
Meeting with Jeremy just a few weeks after the re-launch of his business as House Of Hoye is exciting. That energy about what he loves is renewed, and there is a tangible buzz about the place. The new interior and approach seems to be far more personal, gone are the high street trappings, and in their place is a cool and bohemian feel, more gallery than retail outlet. I asked Jeremy what the thinking was behind the changes.
“I knew that it was time for a real change and I wanted to get back to what I love most of all, which is the creative side of jewellery design and jewellery making. I am really loving being back at the work bench and working with the tools of my trade and the materials – they in themselves are an inspiration. I have also been looking back at my early work, the first collections. I am seeing how fresh they were but also how they have stood the test of time. So much so that I am really happy to be re-making some of those designs for my clients and, in fact, will be happy to make anything now to add to that period’s work for people who bought it then or would like to buy it now.
“Commissions have always played a very large part of what I do, making bespoke jewellery for special occassions, and right now we are as busy with that as ever. I have recently undertaken a job for Steve Forrest, the drummer for Placebo, and that is very exciting. We have always attracted a celebrity clientele and it was great to see that when Dawn French was playing her critically acclaimed one-woman show at Theatre Royal Brighton, she popped in and made a purchase.
“Commissions are not just for jewellery though, and I have just made an award for Nike for the Bay 66 Skateboard Awards. I love the variety that kind of job brings to us and, again, it draws on new inspirations.
“Above all, though, I feel this new beginning has kick-started my creative juices. I am returning to the things I really love, the more avante-garde work, alongside pieces that could be seen as more traditional. And we are making a huge range of pieces that will appeal to all budgets, from charms to pieces in precious metals set with precious stones.
“I’ve never liked following fashion. Fashion to me is something disposable, something transitory that has a brief lifespan. I am far more interested in creating things that will have a longer life, and as such, right now I am inspired by the history of jewellery and jewellery making and classic pieces that have a timeless quality, a quality that I hope to emulate. It doesn’t mean that I will be making reproductions at all, just taking inspiration and allowing that rich history to influence me. I guess some of this comes from the period pieces of jewellery that we are now selling through the shop; they are so beautiful and often so bold.
“That may also have inspired my new interest in bright and bold colours, using large semi-precious stones in new work; real statement pieces that are already getting plenty of attention. I am also looking at the idea that man has always liked to leave a mark on things, from cave paintings to graffiti, and some new concepts take inspiration from that … carved and cast metals with inscribed messages. I am really enjoying working on that idea right now.
“Currently we are seeing a large demand for signet rings for both men and women. I have always liked the fact that we have a large audience of men who like what we create, and buy it not only for their partners to wear but to wear themselves.
“Brighton remains a destination for people buying wedding rings and engagement rings too, and we have already enjoyed doing that, especially creating something bespoke. That said, I will not undertake just anything. It has to be something that I believe in and is a reflection of my own style. Every now and again I will turn down a commission if I feel it is not right for House Of Hoye.
“I was getting very tired of the whole “brand” scene and right now I am very happy to be getting back to what I love, being an artisan jeweller with all the creative freedom that affords me. I love the fact that in our new shop we can stage exhibitions by exciting artists, by guest jewellers, and especially by exciting young jewellers new to the business.”
It is wonderfully refreshing to listen to an artist that is so excited and enthusiastic about his work and his future. I do not hesitate to set about the real business of my visit, and proceed to fish out of my wallet a gold ring set with a rather large sapphire. It was a gift from my father to my mother, and for my birthday she has passed it on to me. I love it very much, it has great sentimental value – but it is far too small for even my tiny hands.
Jeremy takes it in his hands and looks at it through his eye glass. I wait to hear his verdict with baited breath. It’s not that I want the stone to be of any monetary value; the sentimental value is greater than that could ever be. He finally looks up and tells me that it is a lovely clear stone, and he would like to use the gold to mount it into a new silver ring that will sit well with a ring that I have of his from an earlier collection. He takes out a drawing block and a propelling pencil and starts to sketch. Within minutes, I can see where he is going – and I love it. The stone will be mounted in gold and sit in a carved band of silver. He knows that I like the idea even before I can say so, and with a shake of the hand I leave him to get on with what he does best – creating beautiful jewellery.
House Of Hoye, 22a Ship Street, BN1 1AD,
01273 776097, www.houseofhoye.com
