Cook it: Starry starry lunch

Michelin starred excellence from Matt Gillan at The Pass

One of the highlights of my Live Food Show at the Brighton and Hove Food & Drink Festival this autumn was inviting superstar chef Matt Gillan to the stage. To be honest, I was nervous; right now Matt is hot news, with TV appearances and accolades for his fabulous dining experience at South Lodge near Horsham. But I need not have worried. Matt is charming, down to earth and quite brilliant, and the dish that he prepared was simply stunning.

Embarrasingly, I had never been to The Pass, a grave oversight on my part and one that neeeded to be remedied. When a friend declared that it was her birthday wish to go there, a few of us jumped at the opportunity. The journey by train was less than easy, and it would certainly have been easier by car, but no-one wanted to miss out on a full experience, so train it was.

South Lodge stands in extensive parkland and is very smart indeed, but The Pass has a relaxed air about it with high tables, bare wood tops and an open kitchen that can be seen by all. Matt, depsite his stardom, is certainly there running the show. I’ve eaten in far too many restaurants where the starred chef is absent.

We chose from a selection of set menus the gourmet experience at £37.50 a head, for a tasting menu that simply kept on coming. Canapes were presented as cornets of humous and cream cheese and tiny cheese biscuits, and an amuse bouche. Unbilled was a veloute of sweet potato with grapefruit; the bread, four checkerboard sections in one loaf came with excellent butter and three kinds of salt … I know, three kinds of salt! And all surprisingly interesting.

The first course – yes, the others were simply an overture – was an amazing dish of parmesan and dried tomatoes, presented so beautifully that you paused before destroying it. But my word, what flavours.

Next, chicken wing with duck liver, again incredible to look at but mind-blowing to eat, with a stunning sorbet and edible flowers that were actually worth eating.

Each dish is delivered and described by a chef, and when Matt came out I asked him specifically about his Jacob’s Ladder braised in CocaCola. Bless him if he didn’t send it out for us as an extra course, and wow; soft, sweet beef dressed with a horseradish ice-cream and onions cooked until golden and crisp in butter. Heaven!

On to a piece of skate with a hazelnut crust, trompettes and shallot with a spicy red lentil puree. My tongue and my mind were spinning with delight.

Pork belly delivered equally, again incredibly tender, cooked for 24 hours but packing a really hefty piggy punch, and as for the powdered crackling … give me more! Full marks too for carrots that tasted of carrot; a rare thing these days.

Then a pre-dessert of lemon, oats and honeycomb, a dainty dish with a big impact.

We all loved that. It was followed by an amazing combination of peach and white chocolate that was delicate and refined. There we should have stopped, really. My palate was tantalised, my mind overflowing and my tummy full; they may be ‘tasting dishes’ but they are very satisfying.

We all chose to have the matched flight of wines, one with each course, except dessert where we had one with the pair. Each wine was impressive, matched with skill, and presented so expertly by the sommeliers who were attentive but discreet.

We all thought that coffee was a good idea, and it was, except that it came with a selection of five petit fours – for each of us. I, of course, felt it was essential to try them all, and as a consequence felt rather too full, but in a good way. The girls sensibly wrapped theirs in tissues, until a waiter kindly boxed them up in individual silver boxes. I wish I had done that, too.
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At just under £75 a head for our food and wine, this was perhaps an extravagance, but compared to some recent bills it was incredible value; an amazing experience at the hands of a genius chef and his excellent team. I cannot wait to return and do it all again.