Cook it! Regal delights from the palaces of India at Deccan Tiffin

Right Royal

Pop ups and supper clubs are the order of the day, or so it would seem. I created what might have been Brighton’s first ever pop up restaurant many years ago during the Brighton Festival. I had been challenged by the boss, one Latest Bill, to follow his lead of opening Brighton’s smallest venue in his sitting room, but opening Brighton’s smallest restaurant in mine. I lived back then in Preston Street and crazily took on the challenge, opening my doors for nine times in May and serving an extensive set menu of six courses with matched wines. It was great fun, well received and exhausting. I am often asked why I do not open a restaurant of my own and the answer is simple, too much hard work and no time to do what I love, which is dine out in other people’s restaurants.

I was recently introduced to an extraordinarily good cook by another great cook, Kanthi Thamma of Curry Leaf Cafe. His friend is Priya Deshingkar, and my word, can she cook.

Priya is a busy professional lady but cooking is her passion and that passion glows in her delightful food

Priya has launched a supper club called Deccan Tiffin in her Hove home and with a group of food loving friends we went along to find out more – and ‘more’ was the word of the evening, as there was more and more food as the evening unfolded and it was all very moreish.

The evening focused on dishes from Indian palaces, so ‘rich’ was the next key word. We started with a Lamb Shorba – a lightly spiced soup from the Mughlai kitchens of Delhi. It was an amazingly fragrant soup perfumed with sandalwood, a new experience for me – the man that loves new food experiences – and it was served with a crisp Indian biscuit that was equally exciting.

Next a chaat course. I loved this as it took me back to my student days and the bhel pooris of Tooting. Gol Gappe is a classic dish from Old Delhi and the stuffed round puris were garnished with pomegranate seeds and a tamarind and jaggery chutney, then drizzled with pepper water – yum. There were three but I could have eaten thirty, at least.

Next Shahi Chicken Tikka – a kebab course of pieces of chicken breast in a saffron and cream marinade served with a mint and coriander chutney. This was exceptionally succulent, and vibrant with fresh spice and herbs.

So on to the main course – yes, all so far had been a lead up to the star event. And what a star, Dum Ka Teetar, a whole partridge slow-cooked in a gravy of poppy seeds and almonds, as prepared in the kitchens of the Awadhi rulers of Lucknow. Now this was a revelation, the slow cooked game fell from the bones but had lost none of that unique flavour and the almond and saffron infused sauce could have been served solo, it was that good. With it came kachumbar, a fresh salad, a raita dressed with tempered spices in hot oil, fragrant basmati pulao and naan breads. It was amongst the best dishes I have ever eaten and unlike so much game bird served on the bone, it was easy to eat.

For dessert we had a traditional rice kheer with cardamom, saffron and cashews (that’s a posh, very posh, rice pudding).
After this we were offered ginger chai or South Indian kapi, a sweet frothy coffee that I love. Throughout we drank our own wines and beers, a good experience as we had taken along a selection that we were all keen to try.

Supper clubs are fun and you do get to meet interesting new people, but I think this was an exceptional experience and we were privileged to be trying Indian dishes of the very highest pedigree. Priya is a busy professional lady but cooking is her passion and that passion glows in her delightful food. I will happily return and I urge you to try it too, as she is planning a series of future culinary experiences in her own home.

You will find Priya’s Deccan Tiffin events on the website tabl.com where you can also book.

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