On the grapevine: An excellent vintage

Stephen Quinn delights in wines from the French Graves region

The Graves region of France is considered the birthplace of Bordeaux wine. Over time, vines planted on the outskirts of the city of Bordeaux expanded south to the river Garonne to form the Graves. The name comes from gravel, the main type of soil in the region. 

The classified growths or “cru classe” of Graves consist of about 500 hectares under vine, representing about 10 per cent of the vines in the region. Reds dominate over whites in terms of hectares planted, and while the reds are better known, the whites are excellent.

While the reds are better known, the whites are excellent

A tasting of 1998 Cru Classe de Graves reds in London revealed a vintage just entering an ideal drinking phase. These wines could also be cellared for another three to four decades.

Graves was recognised as an official classification only in 1953, despite the fact that some of the estates were founded up to 700 years ago.

The most famous of the Graves reds is Chateau Haut-Brion, one of the prestigious five First Growths classified in 1855. Haut-Brion is the only one of the five from the Graves area.

Because of its reputation, Haut-Brion is expensive. The 1998 vintage sells for about £220–£250 per 750ml bottle. The 1998 vintage is 59 per cent merlot and 29 per cent cabernet sauvignon, with the balance cabernet franc. The merlot drives the wine, providing a sense of ripeness and opulence.

It has a pristine nose displaying an essence of black olives and black tar pebble minerality, followed by an abundance of black fruits with a slightly savoury touch, plus soft tannins.

A feature of Haut-Brion is the consistent line of winemakers from the same family: Georges Delmas was chief winemaker from 1921 until he retired in 1961, when his son Jean-Bernard succeeded him, who in turn was succeeded by his son Jean-Philippe in 2003.

Other Graves reds from 1998 are not as expensive as Haut-Brion and represent excellent value for people keen to drink mature Bordeaux.

For bespoke wine education for groups of 6 in a Brighton home, contact Annabel – annabel.jackson@gmail.com