On the grapevine: Rewarding patience

The 2012 Premier Crus of Burgundy’s Chablis region are on the market now, their quality testament to the ever increasing amount of effort being put into the vineyards in this climatically marginal region. Even in a “not easy” vintage like 2012, then, great wine can still be made, particularly from biodynamic vineyards.

The 2012s are particularly attractive because they’re drinking well now, but can also be laid down. In general, they are taught and tingling, lean and limey. The 2013 vintage was even harder than the 2012 – but it seems that patience may have been rewarded in 2014, which is looking highly promising.

Yet go back 25 years or so, and wine producers in Burgundy’s core Cote d’Or, a limestone escarpment which stretches from Dijon to Santenay, held this satellite component part of the region in low regard, says Herve Tucki. Now, esteemed Burgundy names on the escarpment, like Faiveley, Drouhin and Bize, own vineyards in Chablis too. “But one thing doesn’t change,” Tucki says, “and that’s the terroir. We’re Kimmeridgian”.

He refers, of course, to the unique clay and limestone rock formations of the Jurassic period, its key influence on the vines resulting in uniquely steely, mineral wines.

Tucki is brand ambassador for cooperative La Chablisienne. This cooperative was the first to be formed in France (1923) and sells eight million bottles per year, which accounts for about one quarter of the region’s total production. But in spite of a large portfolio, La Chablisienne is highly respected, and produces terroir wines across 30 different crus, including six Grand Crus and 15 Premier Crus, the remainder spread across Chablis and Petit Chablis. It works with 300 vine-growing families across 20 villages.

Unusually among coops, it is first a wine producer and not only interested in commercial success. Its wines offer tremendous value for the consumer in a region where prices are slowly creeping up.

For bespoke wine education for groups of six in a Brighton home, contact Annabel – annabel.jackson@gmail.com