On The Grapevine: Chinese whispers

Wine producing countries have long had their eyes on the China market, some achieving more success than others (Bordeaux and Australia do well, for example), and indeed the market is growing rapidly.

China now ranks as the world’s largest red wine market, having edged above France.

But the vast majority of wine consumed is produced domestically, and China is now the world’s fifth largest wine producer. Yet very little of this wine is seen outside the country, leaving winemakers and wine drinkers elsewhere to ponder: is it any good? And, when you can find it, what is the best wine region within this vast country?

Gao is making very classy Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay

Industry experts point out that the most prominent wineries, or wine consultants, have been bringing expertise from outside. There are huge domestic producers such as Dynasty, Changyu and Great Wall. But the most prominent names associated with quality such as Judy Chan (owner of Grace Vineyard in Shanxi Province), Emma Gao (owner of Silver Heights in Ningxia) and Li Demei, an academic and consultant in Xinjiang, represent international expertise (principally Bordeaux) in terms of viticulture and vinification.

Grace Vineyard was a quality pioneer in central China, and its Taysa’s Reserve wines (a subtle Cabernet Sauvignon and wonderfully fresh Chardonnay) are available at Selfridges in London. Eyes were on the easterly Shangdong Province, but the climate is very humid. All eyes lately have been on Ningxia, where Gao is also making very classy Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Could the landlocked Ningxia Province be ‘it’?

“China is big and there must be regions where great wines can be made,” says Tersina Shieh, a Hong Kong-based wine culture consultant who studied winemaking at Plumpton Agricultural College. She says there is much to be done before it is relevant to think regionally. “The issue is with people – matching the right regions with suitable varieties, improving vineyard management and controlling yield.”