Andrew Kay: Dines Out
Steak Out
Halloween came along like all things seem to these days as a full weekend of celebration rather than one night. Brighton city centre was filled with fabulous costumes and drunken revellers whilst the quieter streets were haunted by children hell bent on ruining their teeth.
I chose to go into town and join Mr L for dinner. I had no idea where but charged him with the task of choosing somewhere I could have steak and preferably chips. I don’t make chips at home and sometimes needs must.
The next thing I knew I had an email confirming a booking at Grow 40. I confess to having neglected to get along to this smart looking North Laine eatery for far too long – and now I feel very guilty.
We started with a glass of champagne, a welcome treat, and I ordered a bottle of Primitivo to go
with my steak. I was so fixed on that steak and Mr L assured me that I would get one.
First out for me was a wild rabbit terrine (I’d be pretty wild if I was made into a terrine) with pickles and sourdough toast. It was very good, gamey and full flavoured with an excellent texture. The pickles were good too with a nice chutney and ribbons of cucumber and rhubarb.
Mr L went mad and ordered the scallops which looked very good indeed with a homegrown beetroot puree, dried sea lettuce and smoked roe coulis. There is a garden on the restaurant’s roof that provides some of the kitchen ingredients, a nice idea that must create a lot of extra work for the team.
Mr L then chose the burger and a mightly burger it was too. They offer a burger and lobster deal which is surprisingly good value in a world where lobster is invariably very expensive. I could easily have been tempted had I not got my eyes set on that steak.
Proprietor Steve asked me how I would like it done, rare of course, and that is exactly what came, a perfectly cooked slab of rump that had been expertly seasoned. It was excellent, packed with flavour, totally fulfilling my desire. And the chips were good too, crisp, piping hot and salty. As if all this were not enough there was a bowl of excellent béarnaise sauce. I love the unctuous comfort of well made béarnaise, the gentle aniseed kick of tarragon and the opportunity to dip chips. I know, bad behaviour but too delicious to resist.
Things were going swingingly well so when we were asked if we would like dessert we could not refuse. The dessert menu was enticing but our splendid waiter declared that the best was Mickael’s sweetcorn cake. Mickael is the chef and had done so well so far we both gave the cake a whirl. Oh my, what a dessert, the moist cake was a revelation that just kept on giving, the plate was scattered with salt caramel popcorn and on top a fascinatingly moreish scoop of tarragon yoghurt ice-cream. I ate it slowly, not wanting the delight to end and I may well have to bribe the recipe out of the chef somehow, I have to make that cake!
With that we also drank a glass of the recommended Gewürztraminer. An extravagance yes, but that pud deserved it. And yes we even went on to have a final glass of red wine to round off our splendid dinner, that’s just the way Mr L and I roll sometimes. I walked home feeling very happy indeed.
Grow 40 offers a wide range of menus and deals and as well as the restaurant they also run a wine club which uses an upstairs room as a cosy private members club – I must look into that very soon! I’m rather taken with this place as by now you must be able to see. I like their ethics, the local produce, the wine club, the garden on the roof and all that stuff – but what I like most is the fact that the chef can cook well and at the end of the day, that is what marks out a restaurant as not just being good but being way above good.
Grow 40. 40 Kensington Gardens, Brighton BN1 4AL
01273 622519
grow40.com
