Andrew Kay: Isaac’s

Isaac’s back

Much talked about chef Isaac, at 23, is one of the youngest rising stars of the city’s burgeoning gastronomic scene, a scene attracting national and international attention. And judging from the cooking coming out of Isaac’s newly refurbished restaurant in the North Laine this is hardly surprising.

It’s a tiny space, with a tiny kitchen, most of which is on view and the bits that you cannot see are now covered by CCTV and shown on screens above the diners. For a food obsessive like myself this is ideal, I do want to see what is going on and there is plenty going on.

The restaurant has a strict remit of preparing only locally sourced food and drink and when I say strict I mean STRICT! Fortunately in his `capable hands this works and works well. The only down side for me is the lack of red wines worthy of serving with his excellently crafted dishes, although Mr F and I did enjoy a very decent pinot noir from Davenport along the way when we sampled his new menu, a feast of six courses.

First out though. Was a tiny crisp wafer topped with marinated fish and turnip that heralded an evening of delights with a fanfare of flavours. And of course the bread, the amazing stout and treacle bread now an individual bun and the shallot brioche better than ever.

The first course proper was an homage to butternut squash. Now why would you want to pay homage to it? Well now I know, Isaac had roasted it, pureed it and dressed it with the toasted seeds and rosemary oil and the result was majestic, what a start.

The next dish of monkfish and cauliflower was delicate, perhaps over-cautiously so, and the sauce vierge lacked edge, but the fish was perfectly cooked, not easy as monkfish toughens so readily in inexpert hands.

Crispy pork belly next and here the intense flavours were drawn out and amplified. It was delicious, so delicious that we both wanted more. I’m not a great fan of smoked food but the broccoli had been smoked with such delicacy that it really did add an exciting layer of flavour to the dish.

Next came roast chicken served with salt baked celeriac and gem lettuce. I love cooked lettuce and this was perfection as was the celeriac, but the real star of the dish was rightly the chicken which was packed with flavour and truly succulent and the chicken jus was as good as a chicken gravy gets, a sticky, savoury delight that had to be finished with a finger.

To follow came a foraged blackberry and cucumber sorbet. Now I can do without sorbet courses as a rule. Al to often they are merely padding – but not here. This was magic, the initial impact was intensely one of fresh cool cucumber but as one progressed the blackberry took over and came to the fore, and throughout there was a hint of mint or menthol. Whether it was really there or not was unimportant, it could be the cunning chemistry of combine flavours, whatever, and the cunning simplicity of this dish certainly belies the complexity.

Finally a dessert of strawberries, fresh and compressed, with a honey and peppercorn ice-cream and milk foam. It was good, again seemingly simple but at the same time complex. The foam actually came as a delicious dehydrated milk powder, far better than a splodge of bubbles any day.

Isaac is certainly back and how! And with more evenings each week available this is one of the hottest tickets in town.

Tues to Sat 6 – 10.30pm, Sat lunch 12.30 – 2.30pm
07765934740, 2 Gloucester Street,
Brighton, BN1 4EW, www.isaac-at.com

Chaula’s Cocktail Lounge

Long time favourite Chaula’s in Lewes has now opened a smart new cocktail lounge and roof terrace at her original venue, and a great addition to the county town this is. I was delighted to go along last week and cut the virtual ribbon and toast the opening of the eponymous cook and proprietor’s newest venture. Of course along the way I did have to try a few of the bar’s offerings, a clever mix of classics and bespoke drinks to reflect her spicy menu, and I was more than impressed. I loved the vibrant room, enjoyed sitting outside watching the sunlight fade into night and finished the evening with some of her excellent food. The cocktail menu is well priced and there is a menu of spicy cocktail snacks to accompany the excellent drinks. I was also delighted to see that my favourite Sussex sparkler, Ridgeview is offered at what I can only describe as bargain prices. What a great way to enjoy a cocktail and dinner.

6 Eastgate Street, Lewes, BN7 2LP
01273 476707, www.chaulas.co.uk