Dines Out: Moksha Caffe

I’ve been a fan of Moksha since day one. and confess that I find it slightly alarming that it was almost nine years ago, how time flies. Moksha is a success story and it’s easy to see why, proprietor and cook Oliver de Trafford is hands on, even after nine years you can see him there most days with his apron on, up to his neck in cake batter. And it was the cakes that first grabbed my attention, I mean, what’s not to like about a man that can make a battenburg that would put a smile on the face of Mary Berry.

This time though I was in the mood for a late lunch, Moksha has over the years developed a great lunch menu and breakfast too, of which more later. The menu is always tempting and there are many classics to choose from. I trust that they are classically made too as Oliver prides himself on doing things properly, hence a perfectly made hollandaise and not some prefabricated job out of a jar.

I like huevos rancheros but spotted a new item, huevos benedictos. Now that really is a tempting idea and one that I could not resist. I was right to give in to it too. It ticked so many of my boxes and left me with a big smile on my face, chorizo, avocado, tomato perfect poached eggs and hollandaise on toasted sourdough – bliss.

A battenburg that would put a smile on the face of Mary Berry

Oliver spotted me there and came for a chat, bringing with him some hash browns and baked beans. Now I’m neither a hash brown or baked beans sort of man but I had to give in to these, little clouds of soft grated potato in a nest of crisp potato and zingy pinto and butter beans in a vibrant sauce. It was far too much for me to finish sadly.

I had ordered a latte too which was great, the coffees are always great here, but again Oliver trumped it with a scary green smoothie. Now I have tried so many superfood smoothies and pretty much all of them sound good but taste like pond water. Not this one, it was deliciously sharp and fresh with a ginger kick.

Oliver is always ready to rise to a challenge and by popular demand he has launched an excellent Christmas menu that will be available not only during the day but also some evenings and also for private parties by arrangement. I took a look and as expected there is a great mix of traditional and new to tempt any palate and at sensible prices too, and the cafe is of course licensed to sell alcohol.

I should have stopped with the smoothie but out came a stack of blueberry pancakes. In my view blueberries can be rather dull unless of course they are coupled with pancakes and maple syrup. In that combination the sharp fruits are balanced by the soft pancakes and sweet syrup in an utterly irresistible fashion. Oliver makes great, light pancakes with not a trace of the baking powder that is so often the downfall of this classic American dish and although I did not finish I had a damned good go at them.

I also praise Moksha for serving a breakfast at breakfast time, open as they are from 7am weekdays, and I sent my colleagues Sam and Lesley to try. Sam’s report is below, and I urge you to get along there very soon.

Moksha Caffe 4-5 York Place, Brighton and Hove, Brighton BN1 4GU
mokshacaffe.com | Twitter: @mokshacaffe
01273 248890
Open seven days a week from 7-6 Mon to Fri, Sat & Sun 8 – 6

Moksha Breakfast

I’ve always been partial to a full English and wasn’t disappointed with Moksha’s fabulous offering. The perfectly presented plate arrived festooned with delicious, high quality food – Cumberland sausage and bacon, free-range eggs (poached to perfection), a grilled flat mushroom and beef tomato with homemade baked beans and hash browns. Having never tried homemade baked beans, I was in for a real treat. Moksha uses a combination of haricot and broad beans, covered in a rich, fresh tomato sauce.

I also sampled classic Eggs Royal. Smoked salmon, free-range poached eggs covered in a delightfully lemony homemade hollandaise sauce, served on sourdough toast.

For something different, the slightly spicy Huevos Rancheros (Ranch Eggs) is amazing. Free-range chorizo, black bean, sweetcorn and chipotle sauce is served on a crisp tortilla, then covered with melted cheese, fried eggs and an avocado salsa. Three delightful plates of food.