Dines Out: Breeze Hove

So last week I sang the praises of an old favourite Donatello. This week I am doing something similar for another restaurant that offers good food in nice surroundings for sensible money.

I love modern cooking, I love the inspiration of our top, cutting edge chefs, their adventures in food… but there are moments, quite often, when what I want is a satisfying meal that comes as three courses and is both comforting and filling.

Breeze Hove does just that, and in saying this I am not doing down the dishes they offer, far from it. This is good cooking but of a style that will never get them on Great British Menu or the like, but will win and warm the hearts of customers with its honesty and value – and hats off to that.

It was a cold evening and I was particularly hungry, having skipped lunch. I was joined by Mr S who has a hearty appetite even if lunch has been partaken of. He started with a classic of deep fried Camembert with cranberry, it looked great, a crisp crust and oozing soft centre and a deep red fruit sauce. I chose avocado and prawns and was impressed that this was not the usual halved fruit filled with tiny prawns in pink bottled sauce. Far from it, the avocado, perfectly rip, was sliced and layered with large butterflied prawns cooked in a spicy garlic butter and topped with dressed mixed leaves. It was better that good.

There are moments, when I want a satisfying meal – comforting and filling

Mr S continued with a butternut squash falafel burger, yes, he’s gone over to the dark side and resurrected his vegetarianism. I will at this point say that I wholly support his choice and also applaud Breeze Hove for offering a hug range of vegetarian choices; five main course choice no less and five starters too. He enjoyed it too and in particular the beetroot “hummus” which added moisture as well as a favourite flavour.

I of course chose meat and on this occasion the lamb rump. I have eaten this chef’s food many times and know that he applies his solid knowledge of Asian flavours and spicing to some of his dishes. This was a fine example of that skill – perfectly cooked and generous lamb with a spicy crust and the aubergine purée was the best I have ever had, yes the best. It was a robust and satisfying delight.

We should have been too full for puds but could not resist a creamy lemon tart and a very good, and again generous, creme brûlée. The wine list is well designed and not over priced too.

Breeze Hove is a breath of fresh air, haha, and the large rooms are stylish without being intimidating. An upstairs room with its own bar is an ideal party venue too, a lot larger than many venues can offer.

79 – 80 Western Road Hove BN3 2JQ
01273 772 777 breezehove.co.uk