Dines Out: AK looks back on a year of culinary highs

Chef Kanthi Thamma at Curry Leaf Cafe

2016 has been an exciting year in the city’s culinary life. I remember when I first moved to Brighton some 30 years ago. I lived here but worked in London and I confess that if I wanted to dine out I would do so in the capital. There were a few places worthy of attention back then, some of them still with us too and still doing a good job. But if you wanted excitement you had to travel.

Not any more, in Brighton and Hove, and many places across the county, we have restaurants that are achieving great things and receiving accolades on not only a local and national basis but also internationally.

There are plenty of awards around for food and drink. I am involved in some and respect many of the others too, but I thought I would use my column this week to highlight some of the culinary high points of my year – so here goes.

Firstly, but in no particular order as they say on Strictly, Jeremy’s At Borde Hill. I’ve known Jeremy since I was introduced to him by best selling author Peter James back in the day when I designed his book covers. Jeremy and head chef Jimmy create some of the most exciting food I have had the pleasure of eating in what has to be the most beautiful restaurant setting in Sussex. It’s innovative food but grounded in classic techniques and, unlike so many places, it is served in appetite-satisfying portions. I like small plate dining, but too many places have adopted the portion sizes and applied them to classic dining. I want to eat and not to be teased!

Brilliant vegetable dishes from Isaac @

Small plates though are an amazing trend when you embrace the idea and have lots of them, and where better than the incredible 64 Degrees. Here Michael Bremner and his excellent team have created a style of cooking that has impressed not only the nation, with his appearance in Great British Menu but internationally as he is one of the stars in my own series International Chef Exchange which you can now watch on Amazon Prime.

Semone Bonner and his team are also great exponents of small plate dining at The Set. I recently ate there and had the most marvellous carrot dish, yes carrot, the vegetable that
so often disappoints me. I also love the way Bonner tackles puddings, with a gleeful and childlike joy.

Some highlights of my culinary year

Over in Hove, Market surfaced and created a style of dining that is a hybrid of small plate and tapas, but very British and very impressive. I liked it a lot and wish I lived closer so that I could enjoy it more. The same applies to Fourth and Church where fine wine is matched by fine deli style dining and the best gravadlax and pickles I have ever eaten, including the salmon that I ate in Scandinavia.

Talking international cuisine Curry Leaf Cafe go from strength to strength and their new Kemp Town kitchen will open very soon. The same goes for award winning Chilli Pickle, a firm and constant favourite whether dining in or using their take-away service.

Best coffee this year I think goes to Brewed in Lewes Road, great drinks but also brilliant food, savoury cheese and leek muffins, pancakes with bacon and banana and first class smoked salmon, all very keenly priced and well worth a visit.

Fruit de Mer at The Jetty

In 2017 this rich firmament of culinary stars is added to by Master Chef the Professionals winner Stephen Edwards who will finally open Etch in Hove, and look out for my Latest TV documentary about him in the new year. Great British Menu star and Michelin starred chef Matt Gillan also opens his new restaurant Pike and Pine in the new year, a new concept for him and an exciting one too.

I must not forget Isaac @ in the North Laine where young chef Isaac is creating some of the most exciting food around in his tiny but beautifully conceived restaurant. The same also for my old favourite Terre á Terre which I reviewed only last week and found as impressive as ever.

Newcomer to watch is The Jetty at the Harbour Hotel already good and showing great promise.

Brighton should almost definitely strengthen its role as the gastronomic capital of the south if not the UK with international travellers visiting the region simply to dine well.

For now though, if you didn’t see it on Latest TV then catch my series International Chef Exchange on Amazon Prime and from me, seasoned greetings and a very happy new year!