In a glut of burgers, my love of a good burger has been rekindled at Coggings & Co
Good company
Oh how I remember the excitement of going to the original Hard Rock Cafe back in the early 1970s. Prior to that, my experience of burger culture had been restricted to the odd Wimpy and Westler – not a great education into burgerry. The Hard Rock was an experience back then, now it’s a massive tourist attraction with off-putting queues so I cannot comment on whether the product lives up to my memory of it.
Burgers are the current hot ticket and as such they have invaded my diet. Appearing as they do on most menus, it’s hard to avoid them whether you like them or not. I like them from time to time, but in so many cases they are there as an easy option for both kitchen and customer. In other cases they are a fashion thing, and not a cheap one either. A recent experience left me cold, having worked out that our two burgers, shared sides and a couple of cocktails each had come in at £70. That’s £35 a head for one course, served on grease-proof paper! I have not been back.
When I heard that an old friend and excellent restaurateur, Andrew Coggings, had sold his wonderful gastro pub The Preston Park Tavern, I was sad. Over the years I had dined there well on many occasions and it was a regular lunchtime escape for me. Andrew has now opened Coggings & Co at Seven Dials and branded it home of the Sussex burger. Well, it had to be tried. Coggings has great style so it came as no surprise that his new venture is good looking and clean-lined with an array of striking photographic images of the city and its people.
The menu is concise but is supplemented by a selection of very tempting specials; so tempting that I almost, almost, opted for a vegetarian burger! I know. I didn’t of course, feeling it more appropriate to try the beefy ones.
I was joined by my good friends Ms C and Ms MacD so between us we were able to try a variety of options. The beef is freshly ground daily, is supplied by Henk from Redlands Farm in Horam, and very good it is too. Ms C chose the 6oz beef with coastal cheddar, dry-cured honey-glazed streaky bacon, mustard mayonnaise and salad with a side order of onion rings. Ms MacD chose the 6oz beef with tomato, mayonnaise, dill pickles and salad, the ‘trad’ option I guess, but declared by her to be very good indeed. I chose a 6oz beef with mushroom tapenade, Harvey’s rarebit and English mustard mayonnaise. It was excellent, properly made rarebit, earthy mushrooms and the zing of fire that only English mustard can deliver.
I also ordered a side of onion rings which I shared with Ms MacD. I have to declare that these are onion rings of great quality, perfect in every way. As too were the soft brioche buns, although I did abandon the lid on mine as I wanted to eat all of my chips – triple cooked in beef dripping, such a treat. Do not fear, they also offer a duller version fried in vegetable oil for those with a fear of quality animal products.
The drinks menu features an excellent range of local beers, Harveys on draught amongst them, and good ciders too. I should have been too full for pudding, and I certainly was too full for the caramelised banana and salt caramel knickerbocker glories that the girls ordered and devoured. I chose a more modest, but (I am sure) equally delicious affogato made with organic espresso and Downsview vanilla ice cream, coffee and dessert all in one!
I asked Andrew what had made him change from the full gastro offering of his pub to burgers. Customer demand was the answer: he had to watch most days as customers ordered burger upon burger. In the end he decided that it was what the cutomers wanted, so he would supply that demand in the very best way possible. Well, he certainly seems to have done that and has rekindled my love of the burger, which, as I have grown older, had faded. I will certainly be back and next time I will try the wild mushroom with blue cheese and plum and port relish – now that’s the kind of vegetarian option that does inspire me.
Coggings & Co, 87-93 Dyke Rd, Brighton,
East Sussex, BN1 3JE, 01273 220220
coggingsandco.com
Follow me: latestandrew
