Latest Writes: On the grapevine
Past the port
Port has the longest ‘official’ history of any wine in the world (the appellation was created in the Douro in 1756) – but is now trying to secure for itself a solid future, too. An event organised this year on the appellation’s anniversary date, 10 September, in the city of Porto, marked the inaugural Port Wine Day and certainly got discussions going.
The image of port has traditionally been rather stuffy: an after dinner drink to be enjoyed over cigars, and most particularly by British gentlemen. Is it possible for the industry to leverage that tradition, yet embrace modernity? The governing body, Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto (IVDP), believes so.
Port … something to have with, rather than after, a meal
This body says the port industry has at least four strategies underway for adapting to current consumer trends and habits. First, to garner the interest of the younger generation with delicious cocktails like Portonic, and to push fashionable rose port. Next, to hit the ultra-premium market with beautifully packaged, limited edition bottles. And the industry is trying to push port as something to have with, rather than after, a meal (in much the same way as we might pair a first course of foie gras with sweet wine).
Perhaps the most exciting initiative is in the category of aged white ports. There’s one category called Old Tawnies, which are classified at 10, 20, 30 or 40 years old. But now producers such as Symington, Niepoort and Taylor’s are going back into their cellars and seeking out aged tawnies which may even be more than 100 years old – but very affordable.
