Andrew Kay: Dines Out

Señor Buddha

Fusion can so often lead to confusion. Over the years as food trends come and go, few were as misguided as ‘Fusion’. I tried to embrace it but more often than not it was simply a muddle of ill-informed ideas on a plate.
When I heard about Señor Buddha I was apprehensive, would this be more of the same, would I go home with a palate dancing to two tunes – in different keys and to different time signatures?
The answer is no. I need not have been afraid. Señor Buddha takes a selection of great ingredients and presents them with style, a robust style that given the informal nature of this tiny restaurant and incredibly tiny open kitchen is admirable.

I went on a wet and windy Thursday with my brother and sister-in-law. They live in a tiny village a few miles outside and equally tiny town on the Welsh borders, so the range of cuisine on offer to them is to say the least restricted. I thought that this would at least be fun but it turned out to be much more.
The menu is ordered tapas style, the food has some elements of Spain, some elements of the far east, but nothing silly. We sat at the bar so that we could watch our food being prepared – which I love. There is an element of theatre to that format which I enjoy as much when it is going well as when there is a culinary disaster. There were no disasters, despite the owner being a man down and his commis being new that day. Fortunately the young lady out front was more than capable of keeping things on an even keel, even with a huge table celebrating a birthday.
So off we set on our foodie journey, starting with sherry pig cheek croquettes. Slowly braised, like any good Bath chap should be, then breaded and fried. There were Thai spices, but they were discreet and did not mask the sweet pork.
Next came confit duck leg with sherry hoisin poached plums. I really enjoyed this, the succulent confit so much better than crispy duck from the east, but with the addition of that eastern flavour – it simply worked.

I love octopus but given my guests’ fear of it I was willing to forego the pleasure, but they insisted and committed to trying it. I loved it, they were less enamoured – result! More for me. It was as tender a tentacle as I have ever eaten and the squid ink caviar was fun and tasty.
They were equally wary of scallops and morcilla but sadly for me both loved the combination. I have to say the black pudding was perfect, soft and creamy in texture but packed with ooomph when it came to flavour. And the twist on this classic combo was a coconut and cauliflower puree that worked very well.
Given that we had eaten two fish dishes, neither to my brother’s normal taste, we ordered the lamb cutlets and allowed him to gnaw away to his heart’s delight – which he did. Meanwhile his wife and I enjoyed a bowl of really good mussels in a saffron and coconut broth that required an extra portion of good bread for mopping purposes. Full marks too for big fat juicy mussels.
We also made light of the lemongrass halloumi which came with asian puy lentils. Finally the chef insisted that we try his signature mountain mutton stew, a slow braise rich with spices in a heady sauce that put smiles on all of our faces.
So did I like it? The answer is yes. Hats off to owner and cook Lee who held things together so well and cooked up a storm.
9 Preston Road, Brighton, BN1 4QE 01273 567 832