Caffè Société: Andrew Kay talks to Oliver de Trafford on the tenth anniversary of his popular Moksha Caffe

As Moksha Caffe celebrates its tenth anniversary Andrew Kay, Latest 7’s food editor, talked to Oliver de Trafford about his caffe, one of the city’s favourite eateries.

What inspired you?
It’s was always a dream of mine, from a young age, to have my own restaurant. After years of different experiences in hospitality the trading hours of a typical modern cafe appealed to me and with help from my family, Moksha was born.

Had you always been passionate about food?
I grew up in the Mediterranean, so food was always a big part of daily life with plenty of fresh local ingredients.

Great cakes have long been at the core of your menu, when did you first start baking?
My mum made fantastic birthday cakes for us, always a different theme, and one of the first cookbooks I had aged 9 was a book on baking. One of the first things I made was pizza dough followed by plenty of sponges and other delights. After catering college, I didn’t do much baking until we opened Moksha and I got back into it again.

Since then the menu has expanded massively and now offers a fully rounded choice. Do you still make most of the food in your own kitchen?
About four years ago we decided to rebuild the kitchen as we felt we could offer so much more than just sandwiches and quiches. I guess it was the chef in me that partly inspired the change. It was definitely the right decision, and the business has grown because of it. We still make everything in our kitchen using fresh local ingredients, and it’s all cooked to order.

What are your favourite dishes and are they the most popular with your customers?
I love spicy food, and my two favourites are huevos rancheros and huevos Benedictos (our take on an eggs benedict but with a bit of spice). These are probably our most popular outside of the Moksha breakfast.

Our seeded cookies are a customer favorite. I don’t dare take them away

When you opened did you have the intention of taking the brand beyond Brighton, or are you happy running the one well formed restaurant?
We did initially have plans to open more but the costs and risks of opening a business like this are huge, and it also takes a lot of hard work and commitment to maintain the high standards. I think customers like the idea of having the owner on site. We still have scope to grow, especially in the evenings when the shop is closed, so perhaps we might try a supper club pop-up. If the right opportunity came along then who knows, but for now I am happy with the one.

What brings loyal customers back time and time again?
Our customers are very loyal, and many have been coming since day one. I think part of why they come is the consistency we try to achieve, the friendly personal service and we are always adapting to keep our offer fresh.

Are there things on the menu that are so well loved that you simply cannot take them off?
Our seeded cookies, which we have made since the beginning are a customer favorite. I don’t dare take them away.

You are very much hands on, still working in the kitchen and baking. How do you manage these demands now you have a young family?
It’s not just a job but a passion for me. I love working and take great satisfaction from seeing our customers enjoying what we do. I have a young son now so it presents different challenges, especially since he started school and I still work weekends, but I have a great team – especially my right-hand man Sky who I have worked with on and off for 14 years. And who knows, maybe one day my son Leo will want to come and start on the pot-wash.

The cafe has always had a smart and contemporary feel. Is this an important part of staying ahead of the game?
We have changed our interior considerably over the last few years with the influence of my Swedish partner, and after ten years things need a little updating which is important in this competitive market.

The city is full of coffee places, what makes yours special?
Our coffee is roasted in Littlehampton by another small family business, and we have a great working relationship. It’s our own blend, roasted fresh for us every week. The passion they have comes through in the finished product.

You also stock a variety of coffee-related items for sale. Is this something that you will continue to offer your customers?
Yes, we sell a range of coffee and tea as well as equipment and various filter papers for customers to enjoy at home.

Are you doing anything special at the caffe this Christmas?
We have a Christmas menu available through December for parties of 12 or more and private hire in the evening.

What are your plans for the next ten years?
The next ten years… more of the same, keep focused on what we do well and try to grow the business, always looking for new ideas and opportunities and who knows – maybe another Moksha.

Moksha Caffe, 4–5 York Place, Brighton, BN1 4GU, 01273 248890 Mon–Fri 7am–6pm, Sat–Sun 8am–6pm