Dines Out: Coggings & Co

Burgers, burgers, burgers, it’s the food craze that goes on and on. I like a good burger, like most people, but I do baulk at being told that a burger is “the best burger in town” by nearly every place that pats a patty onto a griddle.

The truth is that there are a fair number of decent burgers on the market, being served in a fair number of ways, from the fast and on the hoof, by which I do not mean horse meat, to the rather poncified. I can do fast when needs be, but as a man of a certain age I do like a modicum of comfort when I dine.

With this in mind, and with a visiting friend over from Denver, we headed out for burgers to show him that we Brits can do justice to this most American of culinary delights. Where I hear you ask? Well to Coggings & Co, a firm favourite since it opened a few years back. Andrew Coggings has been around on the city’s food scene for some time but when he realised that in his smart gastro pub most people were ordering the burger he decided to start a new business dedicated to that. It proved to be a great move.

The emphasis is on quality local produce, Sussex produce. Now I know that “local” can often mean that a chef has wandered down to the corner shop, but not here. Andrew has built up fantastic relationships with Sussex producers to create a menu that is in my view small but perfectly formed.

There are some great dishes on there and a changing menu of specials too. I was very tempted by a pulled beef burger but in the end, swayed by the fact that it was on the menu for the last time, I had the burger with mushroom tapenade and pale ale rarebit. It was a succulent feast that dribbled down my chin, there’s no tidy way of eating a burger to my way of thinking and this was filthily delicious, as were the beef dripping chips and proper onion rings. Mr Denver agreed and declared it to be as good as the best back home.

Burgers delivered with style in comfortable and relaxed surroundings, that’s what I really like. I like the ethics too, but at the end of the day it’s about the burger and these are damned fine burgers.

87-93 Dyke Rd, Brighton, BN1 3JE, 01273 220220
coggingsandco.com