Dines Out: Around town

So while some of you gave up the booze this January and some even dipped a toe into veganism, I simply made up for the lost time I endured over Christmas caused by flu. Yes real flu and not the strangely sexist ‘man flu’ which I recently heard is actually a real thing – who would believe it, you could not make this crazy stuff up.

Anyway I have been doing lots of home cooking, staying in and staying warm, which has rather curtailed my dining out. So this week I have a couple of amazing recommendations, one a new find and one an old favourite. Let’s start with the old favourite, Marmalade. It’s been around a while now and from the word go has been a popular place for breakfast, brunch and lunch – and quite rightly too.

I was with a dear friend, Ms M, and we were off to see an early screening of Darkest Hour which we would both highly recommend, proper cinema in every sense. Marmalade was on the way and despite Brighton’s awful parking we persevered and found a space. On the way I fantasised about eggs and soldiers but when I got there I was seduced by Welsh Rarebit with bacon. Now I am very particular about my rarebit, so never think that I will accept cheese on toast, no. It’s a far better dish than that and takes a lot more work and care. This was great, and the bacon was perfect, crisp and tasty with no offensive flobby fat, yes flobby and not flabby! Ms M had a bacon butty and declared that it was the best bacon butty she had ever had, a sentiment that she reinforced later that day by text. The coffee is good too and whilst not greasy spoon prices it is good value for good food.

On the way I fantasised about boiled eggs and soldiers but when I got there I was seduced by Welsh Rarebit with bacon

My new find was an introduction from the inimitable Ms JRB, an iconic lady of the city, when she is here and not globetrotting. She took me to The Pond and there I had a breakfast beer, it was 1pm after all so I felt no guilt, and I had a Taiwanese beef brisket and kimchi bun. Well to say I was blown away is seriously underestimating my delight. This was epically tasty, generous and, at a fiver, brilliant value. I was all for having a second one but time was against me. Ms JRB had a prom bun and I would certainly try more next time, in fact I plan to take a group so we can hammer the whole menu. Very soon!

Finally a late entry, I invariably pop into Red Roaster on the days that I record my TV shows, usually a coffee and a pastry, sometimes one of their epic bacon rolls – but this morning I was ravenous having dined lightly last night. The menu is packed with Matt Gillian’s inventive dishes, some traditional and some his takes on tradition. I’m often offended by people beggaring about with dishes but Matt… well, he simply gets it right.

So today it’s shakshuka and very good it is too. I’m writing this as I eat it and for several reasons. One, I am savouring every spiky mouthful. Two, the typing is slowing me down. And three, if I make it last I can call it brunch or lunch even because I cannot imagine that I will need to eat again until this evening.

So there you have it, three dainty dishes to set before a queen. I thank you.

Marmalade 237 Eastern Road, Brighton BN2 5JJ 01273 606138
The Pond 49, Gloucester Road, Brighton BN1 4AQ 01273 660277
Red Roaster 1D St James’s Street BN2 1RE Brighton 01273 686668