Andrew Kay Dines – Copacetic Coppa Club!
My first visit to Coppa Club was somewhat marred by feeling unwell, and in truth I have always resisted writing up launch parties, after all, you were perhaps not there for what at the end of the day is a one off event.
Leaving a dignified period for the place to settle in I went along with Mr B for a latish lunch after a busy morning in front of the Latest TV cameras. It was an unseasonably hot day and sitting in the window with the sun on my back made up for not being able to sit outside on the some what controversial terrace, which in my view now makes the best use of a rather good outside space.
The menu is refreshingly short, not so many dishes that one queries how the offering could be fresh. In addition there are some classic dishes that defy fashion but do so with class. Hence Mr B throughly enjoyed his fine chicken liver pâté and loved the apple brandy infused chutney that came with it. It looked good, smooth and delicate and he scoffed the lot.I went equally old school with the king prawns with garlic and chilli. Firstly the prawns were big, king size, second they were cooked perfectly, firm but tender and finally there was the right amount of chilli and garlic for the taste of the crustacea to not be masked by the heat of the spice. The bread was good too and after gorging myself on the meat and sucking the heads dry I mopped up and sat back. Sometimes simple pleasure hit just the right note.
After gorging myself on meat & sucking the heads I sat back
Mr B went on to enjoy the trout. It was in fact sea trout and a generous tranche too. He loved the crisp skin which he described as fish crackling,and the accompanying fregola was equally pleasing. On the side he chose a dish of aubergine with miso and sesame which he really enjoyed. I saw lamb cutlets and could not resist. I love lamb but cooking cutlets at home I always set off the smoke alarms and disturb the neighbours.
These came with mixed grains and leaves. Now that sort of scared me but actually on arrival I was rather pleased with the combination of unusual greenery and trendy grains, really tasty, as was the herb yoghurt dressing, predominantly and appropriately minty. The chops were good, properly French trimmed, the fat properly rendered and crisp and the eye of the meat pink and succulent. It was generous too, none of your dainty portions here and thank heavens for that.
Desserts chosen were on the light side, a sorbet for Mr B and some fresh fruit for me, both okay but no challenge for the kitchen and our choices dictated by being rather full from courses one and two. We drank a bottle of Viognier, good choice with all our dishes and not stupidly expensive by modern standards.
The room is light and airy, the service charming and the whole experience rather good. Prices are sensible, not bargain basement but not over-inflated either. All in all a very pleasant experience.
12 Brighton Square, Brighton BN1 1HD
01273 900731
