Andrew Kay’s favourite food places of 2012
Dishy
When I first started writing this column some years ago now I instigated a set of awards. It was a low key affair, little to do with the massive award ceremonies that we see today and it had a simple voting system. I made the decisions on my own.
Strangely, they started to be taken seriously and gradually changed into the Latest Awards and more recently into the Latest Festival and Fringe Awards, at which point there was little room for my Best Pudding category or Booziest Dish of the Year.
Of course we now have the marvellous Sussex Food & Drink Awards and the Brighton Foodies, and more of the latter later this spring as I will be announcing major changes to the Foodies. But in the interim I thought I would offer you a grazing menu of some of my favourites from 2012. Here they are, and in no particular order.
The Coalshed came onto the scene in a burst of flames and pretty soon found a loyal fan base. I have been several times, unusual for me and my restaurant-packed schedule, but I love it. In particular I have loved the Sunday roast deal at £25 for two which to my mind knocks spots off most of the competing Sunday roasts. Great flavours and great value and well worth booking for.
With Sunday lunch in mind but not specifically for that reason my second choice is another newcomer, The Cuthbert. I’ve been several times and, as yet, have had nothing short of delicious food and great service. The menu is inventive, seasonal and generous. It offers great value for the kind of food that posher joints would charge double for – and give you smaller portions. The lunch menu is a real bargain and well worth checking out and in fine weather the garden is a great place to relax – if you can persuade the families that you are not Injuns to their offsprings cowboys.
Out of town there are some great choices, this year I fell in love once again with Pelham House in Lewes. It has all the charm of a country hotel, but is on an easy bus route. The food is great; classics and classics with a twist. Generous portions do not come with a hefty price tag and the menu is versatile enough to snack or feast. Always look for the seasonal dishes as they are great with game and when it comes to puds… need I say more?
Back in town I have a few favourites, the places that you might catch me in time and time again. For classic French bistro I hang my hat in L’Eglise in Hove. It is good, honest and affordable, and served with real gallic charm. Moshimo is my first choice for Japanese and is far more than just a sushi joint with great new dishes all the time and an exemplary record for being sustainable. Not a pizza fan, I changed my tune when I discovered Pizza 500 close to Preston Park. Great pizzas but stunning gnocchi and Sicilian sausage. It’s small and not much to look at but great food and they now take cards which is brilliant news for those of us who are too posh to carry cash. I also love Agua Dulce; having spent too many years holidaying in Spain I can certainly say this is the only place that cooks real Spanish home cooking. Delicious!
My new hot tip was equally unlikely. I have spent years saying how I dislike Mexican food, but I love La Choza and their funky, fun and truly affordable street food. It’s spicy, busy and irresistible. In the evenings I can often be found in Carluccio’s where the food is good, reliable and great value and the service is superb, as chains go this has the heart of an independent. The hottest seat in town in 2012 has been for The Chilli Pickle, booking is pretty essential – but worth it. Their brave move from small to massive has certainly paid off and they are now getting much deserved national acclaim.
It would be crazy for me not to mention the two restaurants that were closest to my heart last year. In Brighton The Restaurant at Drake’s Hotel took part in my International Chef Exchange project, embracing and supporting the concept in a way that I could only have dreamed of with Chef Andy McKenzie cooking up a storm both here and abroad. I thank them all for that. And in Maastricht, yes Holland again, I have to thank young chef Audrey Eussen who came to Drakes and wowed us with her cooking skills. Massive thanks to everyone in Maastricht, especially the Beaumont family, for joining in the party.
If you missed the event in the Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival then watch this space. Our new wing, Latest.TV Brighton, has filmed the whole event both here and in the Netherlands, and with me presenting. I’ve seen the rushes and it’s exciting stuff for foodies and friends.
I only hope that 2013 brings as many great stories to report, and remember, I don’t write about places I dislike, only about places I would happily eat at again.
The Coalshed, 8 Boyce’s Street, Brighton, BN1 1AN, 01273 322998 www.coalshed-restaurant.co.uk
The Cutherbert, 136 Freshfield Road, Brighton, BN2 0BR, 01273 699693 www.thecuthbertpubandkitchen.co.uk
Pelham House, Saint Andrew’s Lane, Lewes, BN7 1UW, 01273 488600 www.pelhamhouse.com
