Cook It: Smokin’
A tasty lunch at the Chimney House
I’m always envious of you Brighton and Hove residents that have a good place to eat on your doorstep, and if that offends any that are close to my home then I apologise. When I lived in Kemp Town I was spoiled for choice within minutes of my home and now I feel that I have few choices close enough to walk to with ease. That of course could be due to laziness on my part, which in turn I will blame on my fluctuating bouts of gout.
I will put a word in here for The Hartington pub which is but a short step away, and where I have enjoyed a decent Sunday roast. I like it too because it still has the feel of a pub and seems to eschew the term ‘gastro’.
The reason I bring this up is a recent visit to The Chimney House, which sits firmly in the residential district just north of Seven Dials that I know as Porthall.
It went foodie some time back, run well by two rather smart young women. It then passed into the hands of Andrew Coggings who gave it the Preston Park Tavern touch of success. He has since moved on to make and sell rather exceptional burgers at Seven Dials. I say this because a recent visit proved this to be still true, and whilst so many places claim to serve “the best burgers” in the city, my vote goes to Coggings and Co for a sit down experience and to Burger Brothers for a stand up or carry out burger blow-out. Back to Chimney House and a cold February day, to be precise my birthday, and a lunch with Mr M. I had left myself hungry in anticipation, Mr M was less in need and went for just a main course.
I of course had my hungry head on and was drawn, as ever, to a dish of pig’s head. Now I love pig’s head in its many forms, from brawn to this incarnation as a well picked croquette. Ignoring the fact that it came on a slate style plate, not my favourite tableware, I loved it. The meat was cleanly picked and lean, the crumb was crisp and it came with haws and hazelnuts that added crunch and sourness and shards of crispy pig skin. Very tasty and very satisfying.
Mr M meanwhile chose the vegetarian tasting plate which arrived looking really splendid. It boasted turnip and malt,
cottage cheese, carrot cooked in whey, pickles, woodruff gel, kale fritter, sour cream with garlic capers and sourdough bread. Quite an array and much of it was very tasty indeed, although we both felt that the kale was a litle too well done and neither of us liked the woodruff gel – a forage too far perhaps. The jury was out on the malt soil but all in all it was a dainty dish to set before the Queen (no reference to myself or Mr M, just a literary affectation – honest!).
As it was my birthday and as I like a nice bit of meat I had no hesitation in ordering the salt beef. I love this modest cut when it is well prepared and I have to say that this was exemplary. The meat was well seasoned, and moist, but it was the well judged mustard element that made it shine. The pressed potatoes on the side were great too and the slippery onions, heart-warmingly yummy wintery food. I was very happy.
“I of course had my hungry head on and was drawn, as ever, to a dish of pig’s head”
Neither of us had appetite left for desserts but spotting the offer of affogato we changed our minds, pudding and coffee in one.
I went for classic and loved it. The quality of the ice-cream used was stunning, almost buttery in texture. Mr M went for an After Eight ice-cream topped with espresso and he loved it. It sounds awful to me as After Eights make me feel queasy, like eating chocolate filled with toothpaste.
On the whole we both enjoyed Chimney House – and our chat with the chef, loved the beers, and I had a sneaky Blackdown G&T before Mr M arrived made with a quality tonic water too. Well it was my birthday after all!
Chimney House, 28 Upper Hamilton Road Brighton, BN1 5DF, 01273 556708
www.chimneyhousebrighton.co.uk
